Monday, September 22, 2008

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier



Certain scents that i came across, changed the way i looked at perfumery, my seriousness towards it reached to a level where i could say, im addicted...Serge Lutens did it with Amber Sultan, Gris Clair, Cedre...TDC did it with Rose Poivree..Montale did it with Blue Amber, Aoud Lime...Creed did it with GIT, Erolfa...L'Artisan did it with Dzhongkha...i cud go on and on as this is my third glass of wine so, ill cut the chase....this list now incudes Maître Parfumeur et Gantier...

It's a company started in 1988 by the great Nose of our times, Jean Laporte (MPG is now headed by Jean-Paul Millet Lage), yes, Jean Laporte is the same legend who formed/created L'Artisan Parfumer back in 1976. this piece of information was enough to get me intrigued about this house...now...about their scents...


Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier: There is something really mysterious about Secret Melange...it's a clove(rich) based scent yes..but there is a "X" factor to this scent...something tht my nose cant pick but my senses can feel...theres a lot going in here behind the wall of freshly grinded "Cloves" the image tht comes to mind is, taking a handful of cloves and rubbing it against a stone covered with moss and then smellin this surface...the journey from Mid to basenotes is again one of the smoothest accords i have ever sniffed. pure class.caltha is very right whn he said it reminds him of Hammam Bouquet..how apt...they don't smell similar atall...but its in the raw, true nature of the accords that gives off the feeling its been made ages before...or maybe centuries before...not an ordinary scent. For someone looking for "that" mysterious scent...look no further.

Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (bottle, vintage formulation):What a scent. a true masterpiece. one of the most intriguing scents in my wardrobe with the capacity to draw you to it every time you open the wardrobe. it's very spicy/herbal in it's opening then gradually moving in to a very distinct spicy concoction which is almost powdery, evoking images of spices and woods churning...almost like a balm....people expecting Tam Dao kind of sandalwood would be suprised coz both are polar opposites in approach...think of this as a brother of Amber sultan(herbal approach) done in a very sandalwood (barks) kinda way..it's "Intense" but yet beautiful. amazing accords all the way till end...one of the best scents ever...and longevity you ask? it stays forever get the vintage formulation while you can...this ones not to be missed. does anyone see the similarity in the Herbal Approach between this and Amber Sultan?

Fraîche Badiane by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (from a sample): It's a very unique take on fresher scent..no, its not an Aquatic kind...it's more of "citrusy fresh green" with an MPG touch. its doesnt smell anything like Urine as some proclaim...i mean, tht's very very misleading.opens with a very controlled and blunt blast of fresh herbs and citrus..if i have to give a relative reference then, think of lemonade with just a touch of sugar and lil bit ginger, coriander leaves and herbs (basil)...this scent in half an hour develops into a very unique accord, the MPG touch...this phase is one of the most satisfying set of accords i have felt. i only have a sample and could only imagine how this must feel with 3-5 sprays...simply divine i must say...if one is lookin for something which is not run of the mill, look no further. move over vetiver based scents..Fraîche Badiane is here to stay...all in all..there is nothin quite like it out there...it's very unique and at the same time it connects with you. simply marvelous...anyone who is looking to part with their MPG's(vintage formulation only)..Please, PM me (ill buy immediately only if the price is affordable to me)..
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier reviews, Fraîche Badine reviews, santal noble reviews, secret melange reviews

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Carthusia - Numero UNO

I was very eager to see what Carthusia was all about after reading thru interesting quotes in Blogs and the constant praise and admiration this House has. It didnt disappoint...however, it didnt smell unique..in other words, i was familiar with the accords in it and it reminded me of few scents it must have been possibly inspired from...

Numero Uno opens with a very boozy accord, in a very nail polish remover kind of way...this accord very soon progresses to a very tart, bright, citrus notes... the effect of Orange peel is very very similar to YSL Live Jazz with a healthy dose of Lavender..its some where in transition from Top to Mid notes that it Uses Thyme in a powdery, copperish way that we are so used to and done in a elegant way in one other scent. The scent that im refering too is PDN New York. Numero Uno relies heavily on this Herbal accord which was so well crafted by PDN in her Masterpiece New York...the mid notes is merely a combination of YSL Live Jazz and PDN NY, not as spicy and balanced as NY though...somewhere in the base, the accords get very crowded and it almost a colossal display and disturbing collage of animalic notes on a base of mushy green vetiver and incense. somehow, it's very raw and real.. seems out of place..maybe it was intented to be raw in it's approach..but again, for someone who has YSL LJ and PDN New York..it'll be hard to ignore the similarities...at the same time, Fans of the same would rever this scent with same passion. Carthusia - Numero UNO review

Monday, September 1, 2008

Divine - L'homme Sage



Divine Lhomme Sage:L'homme Sage has a divine opening, like a white light, a Glow. A powdery burst of fruity notes and spices(mainly barks and roots kind). Fruity notes are so well rounded and delicately coated with spices with a hint of lime peel..the color and approach this scent evokes is very similar to Himalaya, however, all the similarities end in 15 minutes because, the Sage has finally come out of the white light and descended to a divine forest on Earth..this scent take a complete u-turn after 15 minutes or so..one can encounter the earthiness, the wet nature, the smell of freshly chopped wood or maybe the smell of wet bark of a tree. The patchouli with the hints of vetiver adds to the earthiness of this gem. This scent stays dry and smells very real, smells of damp earth and woody notes, not scented woody notes, but just plain wood in a rain forest..as each minutes passes by..one can clearly see these notes wafting of the skin with clear notes of Incense, one of a kind that i have encountered. The smell is very, very, very similar to Lez Nez Let me Play the Lion(LMPTL). i had earlier claimed how disappointing LMPTL was for me..i just didnt get it. but Divine made it simpler for me, it is definitely superior than LMPTL and all counts in terms if execution. With Lhomme Sage, i understood, it was clear, notes were more visible and real. Sage has a very rock solid foundation of one of the best Amber notes and Oakmoss. I think with Sage, Divine tried to accomplish a Scent which would be a Sage in itself. Rock solid theme which, if one gave some thought would really make lot of sense. and Yes, i could very well relate to the name this scent represents.


Fans of earthy green, woody scents, please take a note. this not a scent for parties or office. however, it definitely is something you could approach once you reach home from work, something to wear after a shower, something for colder wheathers..something to wear under the sweater to give you the utmost comfort and warmth without interfering much but, at the same time be there for you when needed. Sage lasts for over 8+ hours easy
Divine Lhomme Sage review, Divine L'homme Sage review