Monday, September 22, 2008

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Certain scents that i came across, changed the way i looked at perfumery, my seriousness towards it reached to a level where i could say, im addicted...Serge Lutens did it with Amber Sultan, Gris Clair, Cedre...TDC did it with Rose Poivree..Montale did it with Blue Amber, Aoud Lime...Creed did it with GIT, Erolfa...L'Artisan did it with Dzhongkha...i cud go on and on as this is my third glass of wine so, ill cut the chase....this list now incudes Maître Parfumeur et Gantier...

It's a company started in 1988 by the great Nose of our times, Jean Laporte (MPG is now headed by Jean-Paul Millet Lage), yes, Jean Laporte is the same legend who formed/created L'Artisan Parfumer back in 1976. this piece of information was enough to get me intrigued about this their scents...

Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier: There is something really mysterious about Secret's a clove(rich) based scent yes..but there is a "X" factor to this scent...something tht my nose cant pick but my senses can feel...theres a lot going in here behind the wall of freshly grinded "Cloves" the image tht comes to mind is, taking a handful of cloves and rubbing it against a stone covered with moss and then smellin this surface...the journey from Mid to basenotes is again one of the smoothest accords i have ever sniffed. pure class.caltha is very right whn he said it reminds him of Hammam apt...they don't smell similar atall...but its in the raw, true nature of the accords that gives off the feeling its been made ages before...or maybe centuries before...not an ordinary scent. For someone looking for "that" mysterious scent...look no further.

Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (bottle, vintage formulation):What a scent. a true masterpiece. one of the most intriguing scents in my wardrobe with the capacity to draw you to it every time you open the wardrobe. it's very spicy/herbal in it's opening then gradually moving in to a very distinct spicy concoction which is almost powdery, evoking images of spices and woods churning...almost like a balm....people expecting Tam Dao kind of sandalwood would be suprised coz both are polar opposites in approach...think of this as a brother of Amber sultan(herbal approach) done in a very sandalwood (barks) kinda's "Intense" but yet beautiful. amazing accords all the way till of the best scents ever...and longevity you ask? it stays forever get the vintage formulation while you can...this ones not to be missed. does anyone see the similarity in the Herbal Approach between this and Amber Sultan?

Fraîche Badiane by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (from a sample): It's a very unique take on fresher, its not an Aquatic's more of "citrusy fresh green" with an MPG touch. its doesnt smell anything like Urine as some proclaim...i mean, tht's very very misleading.opens with a very controlled and blunt blast of fresh herbs and citrus..if i have to give a relative reference then, think of lemonade with just a touch of sugar and lil bit ginger, coriander leaves and herbs (basil)...this scent in half an hour develops into a very unique accord, the MPG touch...this phase is one of the most satisfying set of accords i have felt. i only have a sample and could only imagine how this must feel with 3-5 sprays...simply divine i must say...if one is lookin for something which is not run of the mill, look no further. move over vetiver based scents..Fraîche Badiane is here to stay...all in all..there is nothin quite like it out's very unique and at the same time it connects with you. simply marvelous...anyone who is looking to part with their MPG's(vintage formulation only)..Please, PM me (ill buy immediately only if the price is affordable to me)..
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier reviews, Fraîche Badine reviews, santal noble reviews, secret melange reviews

1 comment:

SculptureOfSoul said...

Hey Jenson,

When you resniff Secret Melange, pay attention to the mid to basenotes after the clove dies down some and tell me if you smell a *strong* rose note like I do. To me, it's the smell of a dried rose intermixed with a very accurate rose absolute (closest to Turkish, from my experience). It's the predominant note in the drydown, to my nose, but it's easy to miss because there is a bit of a mossy smell before that, and the rose just sort of sneaks in and blends in for a while before jumping into center stage, and so it's easy to mistake it as something else.

I've not smelled Fraiche Badiane yet, but from your comments it sounds like I'll have to. From the sounds of it, you'd really like Grain de Plaisir by MPG too - an aromatic mix of lemon, celery seed, oakmoss, vetiver and some other wheaty/doughy notes(don't listen to the pyramid :p) It smells very very "yellow" - very warm and summery and fresh - again without being anything like an aquatic. It has one of the most beautiful lemon herbal openings I've ever experienced, and then transitions into a nutty/doughy accord which sounds bad but it smells more like I'd imagine a field of wheat to smell in the summer breeze (and if I try hard I can imagine the smell of a fresh loaf of wheat bread from a stone oven.)

This transitions again, slowly, into a heavy base with hints of an herbal amber with a slight burnt smell that I think is perfectly integrated. It's one of those scents that just makes me feel *good* every time I wear it, or heck, every time I sniff it. A real mood lifter.

Anyways, yeah, MPG is a great great house. They are the one house where I just *know* I'll respect the scent even if I don't think it's full bottle worthy. They are all inventive, a bit raw, far more natural smelling than most, and just satisfying in some kind of primeval way.

Iris Bleu Gris is another must sniff. Oh, and Route du Vetiver.. and.. oh, I'll stop! :p