Geir By Geir Ness

Geir has one of the "coolest" opening to mid notes that i have come across. i have always wondered if there was a classier version of Old Spice, well yes, there is (imho) and i think i found mine. Smells so "powdery fresh in a very old spice way"(strangely it reminded me of Creed's Himalaya too).

The opening to mid notes remind me of a powdery version of Old Spice/Himalaya ..cool moutain breeze which carry mild woody notes with the hint of pepper, lavender and spices. This scent has a very talcum powder kind of powdery effect and at the same time one could feel the wet nature of this scent..somewhere between the midnotes->basenotes this scent morphs into another character altogether..something like gunpowder/steel/metallic accord on a base of somethin which smells very close to Boss selections. i would buy this over and over for it's there to please. two thumbs up! Geir ness review, geir review

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

A bit on who and what Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle(pictured) is all about:

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle created a platform where TOP perfumers of this era may demonstrate their talents, with no LVMH or other companies to dictate terms and use of certain ingredients or approach that would otherwise suit "mainstream". Frederic Malle(owner & founder) gave these perfumers complete artistic freedom and a platform without norms or limits of any kind.

The Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle today gives birth to 16 exceptional fragrances, each invested with an assertive personality.

French Lover: wow! wOW!! WOW!!! "crisp" clean spices right out of the spritzer with sparkling citrus elements, a scent with such amazing tranparency & shimmering quality. The color that comes to mind in Green, that of a newly sprouted leaf on a tree against the morning sun with the dew drops still on...it smells that pure and radiant..the way spices has been treated on this one has to put a lot of releases to shame. half an hour into the scent and the incense notes which form the heart of this gem, embraces the top notes into its fold with the gentlest touch of woody notes, the base seems to be a very tradional vetiver with animalic notes...overall, if one appreciates scents like Floris Santal, and find peace in Vetiver based scents, then, this is none of them in terms of notes but the overall effect of it is sure to please lovers of the said. Clear Fresh Green notes with Clear, shimmering quality with an amazing heart of incense on a base of musk and vetiver is how i would like to summarise it, imho...Sillage of this one is an experience in itself. it stays close to skin overall if sprayed 2-3 times but, 6-8 sprays should set it right and make you feel good about the money well spent. Composed by the great Pierre Bourdon


Vetiver Extraordinare: ....close your eyes and VE does give an impression of moss and vetivers growing on the area of application, quite literally. smells very real and true. However, it smells very similar to Encre Noir (EN, please see my views on EN below). Im not indicating EN is Better than VE, what i'm indicating though is, i dont have the money for VE($210). both scents have enuff difference to stay in the same wardrobe...where EN may smell of Wood, Spices & Vetivers; VE smells of the very same vetivers used in EN + moss and damp forest smell. if you like EN, there is no way one is going to despise this one. nicely done.

Composed by the great Dominique Ropion and he quotes "a new essence of Vetiver, stripped of its bitter edge, which he matches with five woody notes to play up the scent's various facets. The result is something surprisingly fresh and crisp."
Noir Epices: 

Noir Epices is composed by the great Michel Roudnistka and the notes listed are "nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and pepper, Michel Roudnitska's scent is topped with orange and geranium and backed by precious woods, including sandalwood and patchouli. A woody oriental, a near chypré, its sensuality is elegant, never lascivious."

Im so glad i tested these, it's definitely one of those must sample before you buy kinda House, coz each bottle cost $210 upwards. somehow the reviews/opinions are very polarized...French Lover and Vetiver Extraordinare are the two which impressed me and warrants a buy.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle reviews

Cartier - Must de Cartier

First spritz of Must de Cartier and the image that comes to mind is how soft and powdery it is...like a soft cloud of spice, the intial blast of citrus and Anise with "sweet and sour" notes of orange is softened by spicy notes of Cinnamon with the gentle bite of ginger. Cinnamon barks holds the rein quite well along with earthy, woody midnotes which gives off a feel of being a spicy, oriental, gourmand type of scent. The beauty of this entire progression is that, the top-mid notes is covered by a cloud of Tonka bean which gives this wonderful scent the feel of warmed up spicy sweet, powdery Vanilla. Such is the quality of this note that it enveloped me in a warm, powdery, spicy glow which strays sometimes in the gourmand zone.
This is a very classy scent for formal settings and is thoroughly enjoyable on an evening out...it stays as mentioned above for 4 hours easy thereby subsiding to a moderately close to skin scent with vanillic (tonka bean) and woody notes.
I have read that this doenst have staying power...i have to respectfully disagree...this has a very mysterious sillage. one of the best that i have come across. many scents die out on me..but this, i could smell even after 10+ hours of application..this one is for someone who is looking for a well rounded, carefully blended, Spicy Oriental Gourmand with citrus topnotes, mid notes comprising of soft spices on a earthy, woody, vanillic base.
Cartier - Must de Cartier review

Lalique - Encre Noir

...the Vetiver is this is not the vetiver we are so used to, it's not green like a Creed OV or a Mugler Colonge or Vetiver hombre, No, Not even close...matter of fact this is the dark side.

Think of a wooden chest, centuries old, lying somewhere in attic of your grand parents house. it's not made of any ordinary wood, but somethin very similar to Sandal wood..It's finished to perfection, weighs quite a lot and is huge enough for a healthy person to slide in. This wood, on the outside too has a damp aromatic quality to it..like wet wood.. open this chest and one is wowed by the amazing aroma of wood trapped inside, along with the smell of old dusty books and some spices which accidently fell in...on second sniff one could smell dust much more clearly..Encre Noir takes this dusty/woody approach and combines it earthy Vetivers...half an hour passes by....there is a smell of ink emanating from the books..but this is not like smelling ink directly..it's more like Ink spilled on paper..it's the smell of ink with paper.

in a nutshell- after the card-boardish opening notes of ink, this scent single handedly takes the dry/woody/earthy approach to extremes. there is not a single fragrance released commercially that could match this(in niche category there are some)

It takes guts for a company to release a masterpiece like Encre Noir. Lalique has always released scents which are groudbreaking and creates new landmarks in the art of perfumery. Encre Noir is one of them, probably their boldest. it's no doubt a Comfort scent which will Shine is Winters. it'll provide one with the warmth and woody coziness required...and once you are home from a chilly day out and you are all set to sit by the bon fire, be sure you have Encre noir by your side.

Perfumer: Nathalie Lorson

Lalique - Encre Noir review

Yves Saint Laurent - L'Homme

L'Homme opens with a blunt, woody, citrus note along with the touch of Violets and basil...immediately this classic moves into a warm "GLOW" and it reminds one (only reminds) of a "softer" and much luxurious version of a Dior Homme. Ginger used here strangely reminded me of the raw ginger used in Quorom Silver..only this is 100 times more refined, subtle and been kept under the right volume...Ginger holds this frgrance as an Anchor hereon along with the tonka bean that has been treated with so much finesse, that it gives of an mirage of vanilla..but its not, least my guess...the cedar adds its charms with its touch of woodiness which is very light handed and effective. i get the Ginger all the way to the base on my skin, but by no means this turns a green scent...the presense of vetiver is only little i thnk..or maybe the ginger is eclipsing the same...

It's no Dior Homme. but definitly deserves equal adoration. A must have for me. Very comforting/warm scent for winters/summers alike. going to office cant get any better/classier than this. its certianly for someone who doesnt have to try too hard. It's a very upscale, modern scent which is highly sophisticated in its approach. It's YSL,We all know it never fails to excite

Perfumers: Pierre Wargnye, Anne Flipo & Dominique Ropion
YSL l'homme review, Yves Saint Laurent - L'Homme review

Lorenzo Villoresi - Alamut

Alamut opens with a flowery sweet, incense based opening which is mesmerising to say the least. An Indian would instantly recognise this smell as a spicy Rose based Agarbatti. This is a scent which has definite progression and stages..the first 1/2 hour-45 minutes is dominated by a sweet rose based agarbatti kind incense with heavy rosewood and other floral notes. The midnotes reveal a "well controlled" Tuberose as an anchor with a blunt powdery coating - delicious. The base note is the most comforting with the trademark LV musky/Ambery undertones.

It's always amazing to see a scent with definite stages...the intial sweet incense based opening to a blunt midnotes with almost little or no sweetness to a comforting base of musk, amber and benzoin....very rare to come across a scent so beautiful, that one could actually miss them.

This could be a wonderful fragrance for someone who is looking for something very unique and quite unlike any designer/niche fragrance out there. a wonderful evening fragrance sure to captivate the user and ooze a sense of mystery and sensuality of different level to both self and the people surrounding. just for lthe ladies? - i dont think so...this one can be worn by a man, easy.

Perfumer: Lorenzo Villoresi
Lorenzo Villoresi - Alamut review, Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut review

Loris Azzaro - Chrome

To me Chrome classifies as a niche fragrance. it's an amazing release which is often mocked upon and laughed at but, to me it's a landmark and an remarkable acheivement in perfumery. the notes interplay with each other with such amazing clarity, zing, effervescence that it's capable of shaking one up - "fresh" and it stays that way. The mere thought of applying it after shower brings on a smile. When it comes to lasting, it has stuck on me thruout a swelterin afternoon out in the sun, sweating profusely, but this one refuses to die out. Instead it mixes with sweat and gives off a fresher feel, sorta like a filter.

One would notice that this amazing concoction opens with a burst of freshness and a slight metallic note which sets the tone to this scent. There is a radiant inner glow to this scent which is done in the very same class as Dior Eau Sauvage. This burst of freshness is sparkling & shimmering with a radiant inner glow..combined with slightly bitter citrus elements, well rounded off with a musky cloud of dew and gentle tea notes; giving this gem a almost, mineral like, transparent, clear smell...the base of this one is quite woody yet, maintains the freshness till the end.

I, by now, have got introduced to Serge Lutens, 5 of the Creeds, and other so called Niche brands, and i wish they had released this gem. but they didnt, this was god's gift for common people like (me) to enjoy.

Perfumer: Gerard Haury under the creative direction of Loris Azzaro.

Loris Azzaro - Chrome review, azzaro chrome review

Gucci Pour Homme

Gucci PH opens with a camphory sweet, slightly smoky incense on top of green leafy notes & woody accord. it is no doubt a sweet incense based scent, with a subtle touch of sandalwood and other "woody" notes...as the sweetness (infamous pencil shaving note) starts to wear off in time, the leather, benzoin, incense n Amber works up the smoky sillage...this ones a smoky, spicy, incense based scent with a comforting base of leather, wood and amber..leaving a trail of pure class beyond words. Like Dior Homme (no similarity in smell), Gucci PH leaves an impression on the wearer...the aspect that i find most intriguing about this scent is the sillage, a masterpiece from Gucci, one that can challenge well known niche scents costing 5 times more.

Gucci Pour Homme review, gucci ph review

Patricia de Nicolai - New York

I rarely have an image associated with a scent which i wear for the first time and the Image that came to my mind when i wore this wonderful scent was...gold rimmed revolving door at a plush 7 star Hotel with red carpets flawlessly clean and me, entering this place in the most comforting grey suit, red silk shawl & hat and ofcourse, PDN New york as my Sotd! quite obviously this scent has more to it than my quote above...This one exudes sheer class and maturity in the most relaxed and comforting way. please dont expect this one to be the run of the mill orientals...NY opens with a muted silence, all i smell in the initial 1 minute is OIL. as the scent starts to settles one is introduced to a clear note of vetiver with bitter variations of citrus and "herbs"...20 minutes into the scent and i get this familiar smell far behind a wall of Pepper, clove, spices and something almost animalic (civet?)...and guess whose lurking behind...Chanel PM! NY definitely shares some key notes with PM, but its only relative, this does'nt smell anything like PM overall.Now, this animalic note lingers around quite a bit giving off "bitter" powdery touch, almost metallic in nature, this stays on for quite sometime..its clearly as if it's holding back a collage of notes, waiting to burst forward..it's when this animalic note tones down its intensity that this scent reveal yet another character..the well rounded effect of oakmoss along with a controlled but majestic touch of spice and green notes on a steady base of amber, leather.A must have in any wardrobe..and please don't expect it to be anything like Obsession "kind" oriental. this one's a unique take and for all you know, a very unique scent like no other.
Patricia de Nicolai - New York review, pdn new york review, new york review

Hotel Costes: Costes

Costes - what can i say. it smells exactly the way a indian spice chest would smell. every household in india has this small chest filled with spices from cumin to anise to cardamon to cinnamon to you name it...it smells exactly like opening one + incense+smoke. just amazing how they captured all this smell, this was my first true introduction to niche, where every note is so clear and defined and most importantly, makes you go wow! one needs to be in a mood for this one..its almost medidative kinds....room lit with scented candles, lights thru ancient stained glass, heavy carpets from turkey...and freinds.

Comme des Garcons 2

CDG 2: Ink? yes, exotic aldehydes? YES! fruits, berries, flower built around aldehydes all this tempered with some kind of cool liquid, which give it that tranparency and clean feel inspite of the assault of notes. quite potent and would last ages.. is very classy, definitely a club wear. would definitely smell a lot better on ladies...would make me drool for sure....if black xs is cranberry juice...then CDG 2 is some kind of elixir made of exotic fruits and flowers tempered with the coolest aldehydes, incense and ink available....definitely not a office/daily wear for me...i would prefer to wear it to a rave..or whn im at home reading...two extremes. caution: only one spray. please.

Serge Lutens

Serge Lutens scents throws away the conventional elements of perfumery in todays market, Instead, it makes an bold attempt to give the user a raw and ethreal feel. Lutens fragrances transports one to places never felt before, draws themes and evokes strong emotions.

It's like being massaged for the first time, Lutens frags are an Olfactory equal to this.

Serge Lutens - Amber Sultan: Sultan - means supreme, the king of desert, a ruler. ..Amber Sultan opens with a "sharp" balm like spicy herbal opening, with a mint like coolness to it reminding one of tiger balm for an instance. Amber in a way embraces this sharp herbal/medicinal notes along with benzoin giving this scent an resinous depth like no other. the intial sweetness and intensity of herbs is beyond words...it's almost fluid and consistent in its sillage exuding smoky bittersweet herbal incense..the mids is where this scent begins to unfold its charisma, where the medicinal(herbal) notes tone down its presense to reveal one of best amber notes that have come across along with hints of vanilla (will remind one of Opium for a second) and hint of patchouli..which gives off a dusty dry feel..this scent evokes true smoke..not the way i experienced with declaration...this ones real...the basenotes is where the woods show up...true Amber..with the gentlest touch of green on the outside along with sandalwood..evoking thoughts of this resins being freshly extracted...one could almost feel true structure of AmberAmber sultan is one of the most comforting scents out there which has a healing touch, almost like a therapy. the potions that everyone keeps talkin about? the long lost ones? well, this could very well be one of them. this ones herbal, warm, smoky, animalic & rugged. thumbs way up..

Serge lutens - Chergui: Chergui oh..chergui..im in love with this...imagine a 1000 tea leaves placed over each other with lime skin placed in between every 200 of these leaves..throw in a good measure of hay and slightly dry but still green tobacco leaves and vapors of honey. now place genuine leather (used in saddle preferably) on each side like sandwich, it may be worn out in the sun, but it's authentic leather...now place all this in between steel weights a ton each and crush em up...what do you get? juice first, but then oil..every last drop of life, every last drop of life left poured into a bottle and sold at $140 for a 50 ml...do you think it's overpriced...? hell no...


what an experience this has been (this is a limited edition and it is available only in their Paris outlet, I got lucky!)...get your bottle while it lasts...this ones not to be missed. this one will never try to please, its there to give the user an ethreal experience. an experience of another place..a place one has never been. smoky green at first with a sultry leather/tobaco mids & with one of most divine amber with leather and animalic musk basenotes, ever. smells like slightly sweaty skin. is it wearable? sweet Jesus! Yes! it's as classy as it gets.

Serge Lutens Cedre: this juice is for real, i get lots of tuberose coated with honey for the initial hour or two, its then that the tuberrose tones down its intesity quite a bit to reveal woody notes on a raw base of amber and animalic musk! i think careful application is the key. If tuberose isnt your thing then steer clear. i agree that this would suite a lady more, but hey, to each his own. if you are fine with tuberose then i presume you would survive the intial hour or two easy, with a smile. Most suitable for colder whethers. a strict no no for summers, unless you are fine with two sprays.
Cedre review, Chergui review, Serge Lutens Amber sultan review, serge lutens reviews

Creed

Creed Silver Mountain water: First spritz of SMW and i was bowled over by the smell of fresh citrus on a base of sweet dry earth, currants, "violets, Tea" and mountain fresh green accords..moving forward the green tea note gets a lil clearer which adds to the overall earthiness of this gem along with musk and a hints of patchouli. Blackcurrant and violets add to the overall feel and character of SMW along with lush tea accords on a steady creed base. SMW has a very earthy smell (Fullers earth??) on me, powdery quality to it. I'm not sure if it's just me, but this earthy (powdery, musky patchouli) note in SMW reminds me very strongly of "multani Mithi" or Fullers earth. Mithi in Hindi means Earth or Soil. i think people are referring to the very same note as the "ink jet toner note".

I wish i possessed the right words to describe this scent, neverthless, a classic for anyone who admires green earthy scents. all the references to Chrome, CK one, unforgivable (oh please) etal is baseless and holds no relevance.SMW last over 6 hours on me which is enjoyable, good sillage thereafter. SMW is powdery overall with excellent longevity

Creed - Green Valley: Beautifully subtle, natural smelling scent which would evoke images in mind, an image of a breezy green valley? Indeed. Very few scents that i have tried have had this kind of Visual image attached, as if it was a scene from memory. I love trekking and we freinds usually like to trek during monsoon time..mainly dense forest 6000 feet above sea level. This scent took me back in time and reminded me of how beautiful these treks were, took me back to the cool mornings, where gentle breeze would gustle past carrying with it the smell of the valley.. far far away from the pollution and chaos.

GV opens with a "subtle" burst of slightly sweet and sour fruits (berries?) tempered with a very controlled citrus & vetiver covered with fresh mint leaves with dew drops still on it. this one stays green, mellow, soft with a caressing touch of violets, never too loud. The mint stays fresh for a long time...the touch of vetiver with hints of moss adds a lil bite towards midnotes which is very relaxing evoking positive vibes...by this time i had reached work, oh yes...all the time while driving, i cudnt take my mind of those beautiful treks...almost an hour and the mint/vetiver/citrus/berries element is still there...there is a certain cooling effect this one has which is very refreshing..past the midnotes, the scent gets a lil stronger and "perfumy"..the tops notes are wearing out leaving clean traces of green notes & vanilla with hints of violets on a lush base of sandalwood and musk, sure to please the wearer and others alike..it's only in the base the scent doesn't smell natural enuff anymore and is a very comforting base of musk, Sandalwood and oakmoss. lasts good 6 hours on me, thereafter with moderate to decent enuff sillage.

Creed - Erolfa: Another scent which evoked images in my mind. i could almost hear the waves gently waft the boat..the sweet and salty smell of sea with a strong breeze which carries smell from far.. i really cudnt shakedown that image, it was true and pure. i'm totally in awe of how they managed to pull this one of. what in it gives away that feeling of being at sea? not on the beach, but right in middle of the sea with sea weed floating by. an experience not to be missed.Erolfa opens with loud tart tangerine note which is almost as tangy as your Altoids pellet combined with the smell of melon juice dried off in hand...the citrus elements add a nice bite to the openin with the melon sweetning things up...some might say this is synthetic, but i felt it was just being true to the smell of salt and sea breeze, which is actually sweet, also, a defnite progression to the most enjoyable phase in the scent..."middle in the sea accord"- well within an hour, this scent take a mellow approach, with definite movement and interplay between the notes, notes which fade in and out, as if it were breathing...this is what probably gives this scent the feel of waves, real waves...i really wish this phase lasts forever, but like every good thing, it does fade out respectfully to a dirty base of Sandalwood, Amber, musk and sea weed. Erolfa lasts over5-6 hours on me with moderate sillage thereafter.

Creed Green Irish Tweed: Well, whenever i come across a new scent, i hope it's something which i have never smelled before, something unique; i didnt get tht feel when i sniffed GIT, same thin happened when i sniffed Chanel PM, but then i thought, maybe the scents im referrin to were inspired by these. another aspect which i noticed only recently was that it was released in 1985, now was'nt tht the era of heavyweights and intense perfumes? GIT is never too loud and is a classy scent with subtle developments.

Though the opening is citrus based, this one's tempered with something very musky, fruity sweet, almost powdery quality, somethin in the vain of CK be. It does have a stinky, fruity opening. Some notes in it, never allows the citrus to add its brightness. the opening notes clam down to a base which is very comforting, musky & ambery in it's drydown. also, something about GIT has a "cooling" effect to it, cant really put my finger on it..This is definitely for someone who is not looking to gather attention, but will still do in a very nice way. nothing in it can possibly offend anyone, i guess it's in its simplicity of design, comfort and wearability that GIT has won over. is it worth the price, well, very subjective... but i find this one very wearable on a daily basis, something i could comfortably wear in front of my CEO, i only wish i could afford it time to time. there are some notes in it which is very common used in deodrants, hence the familiarity. Similarity to Cool Water lasts for 25 mins and not anythin beyond that, the Violets have been treated with so much finesse and Subtlety here, unlike CW where its loud and brash. so, for those who are not trying this one out thinking it CW, please reconsider. GIT last over 5 hours on me which is enjoyable, thereafter moderate sillage.

CDG incense series

CDG incense series

The incense series in general, startled me at first. Kyoto and Jaisalmer would probably be the two which would come across embracou immediately, saying that it doesnt mean it doesnt have substance, only that the other two, Avignon and Zagorsk, are pretty bold, no holds barred, really intense scents but, couple of wears in to it and one would appreciate all of these for their respective qualities.Incense series is dark, woody, smoky, mysterious, resinous, earthy, dusty and loaded with incense in general. though they all have the same characters, they smell poles apart from each other in their approach. a definite for someone who is looking for an adventure, a spiritual and meditative adventure in perfumery

Kyoto: i have never stepped inside Japan, leave alone Kyoto . it seems the be the most "wearable" of the incense series along with Jaisalmer. Kyoto smells of temple made of woods with ceiling darkened by the soot of incense, there is a odd ink note which reminds one of CDG 2 for a sec. Kyoto opens with a very crushed leafy note which is almost violet in approach... the midnotes carry fresh breeze from the cedar/pine forest along with a healthy dose of powdery florals and woody notes, all this on a solid base of amber and incense. The comparison to Christian lacroix Tumulte is very true, only tumulte lacks the intense incense laden basenotes, neverthless, tumulte could be a very good substitute for someone who wants to get a good idea of what Kyoto is all about.

Jaisalmer: opens with lush spicy notes, mainly those which evoke sweet aroma, smells of barks with a bite of chilli. the spicy notes is well rounded by the time i reach midnotes with a heavy hand of woody notes, this scent is not dry but, its definitely warm though... somewhere in midnotes i felt as if i have reached the basenotes and there would be no further development here on, oh well, the woody notes starts to wear off revealing the sweetest incense notes. i think this one is the "sweetest" of the incense series with a very camphory cool feel potent enuff to numb ones nostrils... be prepared for "what are you wearing! you smell exotic." comment.

Avignon: opening to mid notes, this has one of most INTENSE "Frankinsence" note. its as if i was put inside a chest filled with Frankinsence for over the last century or so, its very very very intense. it takes almost an hour for this rustic note ot wear off; then revealing the altar surroung it with massive ceilings and aged stone which has absorbed the soot from this incense for as long as mankind. the coldness of the stone is to be sniffed to be believed. basenotes has the infamous "dust" notes giving the basenotes a very ambery, dry feel with hints of burnt woods. A priest would defintiely find this interesting. wearable? well, couple of wears will tell me if it i could wear to it work, i dont wanna end up conducting a Mass..This one is potent, exciting and unlike any other scent i have sniffed before, however, the smell is not unfamiliar, every christian knows this smell. if one would like to know how this smells, please go to the nearest church, it's about time :)

Zagorsk: Zagorsk is the smokiest of the four i have of the incense series, right of the sprayer, this scent starts working its vibes like a virus, smoke fills up the room with strong incense notes, this one again has some kind of mothball kind of intense notes coupled with peppered spices which literally makes me numb, it stays this way for almost 2 hours or so finally retiring to sweet burnt woody notes ..it reminded me of jacomo de jacomo quite a bit until midnotes. just a reference. very intriguing and thought provoking and to an extent, one would miss this scent when this is not your Sotd (scent of the day).

Montale Oudh and Non Oudh line - views

The magic of the Oudh line is in it's depth, balance, earthiness, woody undertones and the quality of ingredients used. the resulting sillage carries amazing wave of notes which is sure to please. Im totally in "awe" of the three i tried so far. initially one would feel that buying one from the oudh line maynot warrant buying the other...but its so untrue..every scent will capture your heart with a unique lesson in balance and interplay of notes, making each scent unique for the day you choose to wear it. Very few scents come across the way these do. Count me in as a Montale fan..

Also, most of the montale line is a representation/interpretation of what has already been done in middle east and India. it's not exactly original. Everything from the oudh line, Attars and Mukhallat is inspired and most often copied. Montale adds his touch and refines it quite a bit to make it wearable to all. All in all, a big thumbs up to Montale for taking this bold step and introducing the west to Indian and Middle eastern perfumes.

The Aoud Line:

Aoud Flowers: This one opens with a sweet refined floral blast along with Oudh, Rose and Lime, almost medicinal and oil extract in nature..give it 5 minutes and it settles down to a very fine layer of Rose, quite unlike BA. The oudh Backs off quite quickly on this one (45 minutes on my skin)...only to reveal "polished woody notes" and oudh. it stays this way with not much developments except for the polish wearing out revelaing a very bright Oudh note with touch of gold powder...easily Unisex, but would be really drop dead sexy on a lady. spritz away! it's Montale Time!!

Red Aoud: the opening 5 minutes is where one feels as if they were smelling chocolate. i think its a mirage created by the combination of Oudh, Iris & saffron...in time this note subsides intoa very warm layer of spices. the oudh by itself is very less pronounced at this stage. we have a very familiar note once we are 15 minutes into this, it's here that it smells quite inspired by Dior Homme(im surpised no one made this comparison . one can clearly view Iris laying down on bed with pepper sprinkled and it being massaged by Saffron...the interplay of notes now take on full swing with the spicy notes interchangin places with Iris. This essentially stays on like Dior homme for the entire progression of mid notes with spicy undertones to keep one busy. this one has a heart of Iris surrounded by spicy notes on a lush base on Aoudh. fpr ref, this is a spicier/oudh version of Dior homme)

Oud Ambre: Opens with a blast of sweet, medicinal notes of oudh, the oudh used here is kinda new to me of what i have tried so far from the montale line. i also detect bit of incense in this one...and by far this one has to be the Woodiest Montale that i have tried. it maybe the true form of Amber which is painting this Image of smelling the open part of a freshly chopped tree. half an hour into this and it turns in to a slightly sweet and smoky then progressing in a freshly made Amber notes reminding one of the amber base in Amber Sultan. the only difference is the presense of oudh, which doesnt really try to the the stage. is humble enuff to take the supporting role and walk away with the best supporting actor in this film. for anyone who is looking for a Amber based scent with more than one twist, look no further. as obvious, this one is not out there to impress anyone, it's a very pleasant amber based scent that could be easily worn by either sex. the base is pretty light compared to Montale standards. very comforting and cozy for Winters. i think it;ll shine in winters sitting by the Bonfire. for one of those days when you dotn want the Oudh to overwhelm but at the same time, be there for you.

Black Oudh: one of the most intense openings ever! hardcore OUDH blast from the past with heavy duty crushed rose breath wrapped in leather. The initial half hour or so, this stays pretty intense with the rose peeking out in middle...it literally "peeks" it may sound funny but thts wht happens. some where in the midnotes, the big bully finally allows the Rose to see the outside world...the rose in it smells a bit like the "Rose by crown perfumery" something like concentrated rose water...it's after couple of hours that BA reveals its true character and makes the entire journey quite interesting. it is here where the heavy dose of patchouli casts its magical base of earthiness along with the oudh..the combination of pathchouli, oudh and rose with leather notes cast a spell, so comforting, warm, earthy and woody...that it acheives an unbelivable depth and tone to the whole journey. lovely stuff, i would be surprised if anyone took to liking for this one immediately. i know i didnt, but this one showed it character in full wear. this ones called the king for a reason. it's sillage will have you fall to your knees...too good a frag to be missed. just be prepared for the intial hour or so...it's like Scotch...give it to someone for the first time and they'd be like...what the heck is this?..how cud one possibly drink this??...but steadily, it grows on you..and intoxicates one and makes them come back for more.

Aoud Lime: smells like BA, but the difference is how the saffron-rose duo jams with lime, oudh and other woody notes...i find this one more enjoyable and exciting all the way from start to end. The addition of saffron changes the approach and adds a lil bit of sweetness to the entire mix, bringing out the best from Rose. again, if one removes the oudh frm this, it'll be a different frag altogether in comparison to BA. BA with its heavy dose of oudh, leather and patchouli is a different beast altogether. Aoud lime is a definite keeper and i would certainly imagine wearing this over BA some days...

Royal Oudh: if one has to be introduced to oudhs, i think this would be the safest way to do so. Royal Oudh is well, Royal. a very familiar smell (kumquat), sweetened by grapefruit, its sweet to an extent, but its stops way before one would call it fruity or gourmand. i really loved the opening notes of this one. makes one feel like one of those rich sheik arabs. the oudh in it is massaged in the background with slightly sweet fruity notes along with rich spices...the oudh is very much put in background and acts as a rock solid base for other top and midnotes...the whole balance of this frag amazes me..to see how the intensity of the oudh is controlled from top to midnotes is to be witnessed...its only in the base tht the oudh and some kinda chilli notes rule the roost..giving us a totally different frag that it was in start.....overall, worth sampling.

Non Aoud Line:

Vanilla Extasy: this is clearly influenced and is an exact replica of H.M. by Mori - Period. I hate gourmands of this nature...so, this one is definitely not for me. for anyone who likes H.M. this one should be right up your alley. Seems PM is a big fan of this release by H.M.

Fougeres Marine: it's pretty clear that Montale had GIT as an "inspiration" for this one. im not atall indicating this smells alike but, one cant help but think that hey, this is such a nice interpretation of GIT. this is obviously done in a very Montale way..Inspite of having Erolfa and GIT, I would still buy this gem coz it doesnt smell like any of those. there is a very cool mineral water feel to it.. like clean transparent approach...as if this is what silver mountain water should have actually smelled.. it doesnt exactly remind me of the sea..fresh green notes mingling with mineral like subtance on a base of musk.Im surprised by how underrated this gem is though. this ones clean, fresh, out of the shower kinds with a very interesting interplay of notes to keep you busy all the way till it ends. only down side...spray liberally for good lasting)

Greyland: Opening is quite promising. but, thats pretty much it. it is sort of a very ultra light version of SL Gris clair. i smell fumes emanating from a volcano from distant. i get the very same image for Gris clair..only this time the Volcano is erupting just next to me..well thts SL...anyways. greyland is a very nice dry ash based incense with hints of green notes(which reminds me of Let me play the lion quite a bit). One has to be pleased with its close to skin nature with occasional whiffs..liberal sprays should solve this or else, go for gris clair..one spray of that and you are in hell (in a very good way...i'd imagine Liz hurley would be there... slurps) ....on second thought... :) i have still not made up my mind on this one. one of those kinds which grows on you it seems..

Vetiver De Sables: opens with a burst of Iodine based oinment which i didnt like a bit..it has that athlete rub ointment kinda feel...smoothens out after 45 minutes with some mild hints on vetiver, i dont get an woody notes atall..i would be curious to know everyones thought on this. this one didnt impress a bit.

Red Vetyver: jeez..is this hot or what..the image that i had after wearing this was that of a man in flames. is it chilly? gosh this has all the hot spices one can think of..quite unbearable for me. and im talking two dabs from a vial. two sprays and i would run towards my freezer...it stays intense for almost 2-3 hours before relaxing a bit to earthy vetiver and patchouli base....however, couple of wears into this, and i'm kinda growing into likin it. i can imagine how people staying in colder places would find comfort in such "warm", "spicy" vetiver based scent.

White Musk: Sexy or what!! this ones damn cool!! and by no means it's feminine..i mean ladies can wear it, but so cud a guy carry it off easy! the way it makes me feel is -> "smiling fresh"! damn good stuff! smells like fresh talc, a must try for everyone who appreciates fresh, tranparent, uncomplicated version of Musk based scents!!

SandalSliver: wow! this ones massive! the immediate thought that comes to mind (for topsnotes) is a ingredient called Gulkhand(it's made of fresh rose petals+powdered sugar+honey+lime), we use it here to make sweet paans.. though the composition may sound too sweet but, its not, the overall aroma that this exudes is just addictive. the opening notes smells like that...it stays there for 30-45 mintues then moving in a wonderful composition of sandalwood oil and vanilla on a earthy base on patchouli.. but, Sandalwood takes the spotlight away pretty easily.

Blue Amber: as the name suggest! this one has a note which is quite linear and evokes different shades of Blue. the use of bourbon is very similar to cruel intentions, By Kilian..this ones smooth to the extent of being very fluid in its sillage. it's only in the midnotes that the Patchouli and vetiver adds sexy bite to the top notes on a base of one of the most beautiful Amber/vanilla accords ever. this ones easily one of the best amber scents around. it's very powdery...powdered to comfort.. amazing sillage..the one tht has you time and again thinkin, who is smelling so good! potent stuff on the way to acheiving cult status. im goin to have a hard time resisting this one(quick reference...SL Gris clair..psst..dont tell anyone i said so..it's just a reference)

Mukhallat: represents a smell that i associate with Muslims(like all other montales). growing up around a loving Muslim family as neighbours, i can tell. it always used to intrigue me when younger..when i used to see uncle apply a lil part from a small bottle into a cotton ball which he would palce in between ears groove..then rub some under neck. mukhallat brings back strong memories. though it's a powdery gourmand (and people who know me, know how much i hate them), and it indeed is sweet, it commands respect and reflects festivity. To me, its s fun scent, to be worn specially on occasions and ofcourse when you feel like any other time. i definitely cannot associate it with sadness or daily chores or everyday wear..it has to be something special. this would be something very unique in ones collection, not comparable to any scent out there. notes of strawberry and almonds wouldnt make eny sense coz we arent used to smelling them this way...think of all the tropical dry fruits..like Dates..imagine them in their juicy sticky form..imagine this having captured the best of it all...mix them all in milk and vanilla ice cream till it becomes an elixir from heaven...the mere thought of it should send our tongue rolling and leave a everl;asting olfactory signature which is very hard to miss.. this one would be lovely on a lady and a man alike. it's all about the timing for this one. 50 ml should go long way and would stay enjoyable. a big thumbs up to Montale for introducing this already existing formula to everyone.

SandFlowers: Nothing to write home about. smells very dry yet has some life..maybe a freshly chopped cactus, seaweed or some flower that im not familiar of. all that associations with Sand is true and it does evoke an image of shrubs in between sand on a very hot sunny day. again, nothing spectacular & moderate sillage..

montale reviews