Monday, August 11, 2008

Montale Oudh and Non Oudh line - views

The magic of the Oudh line is in it's depth, balance, earthiness, woody undertones and the quality of ingredients used. the resulting sillage carries amazing wave of notes which is sure to please. Im totally in "awe" of the three i tried so far. initially one would feel that buying one from the oudh line maynot warrant buying the other...but its so untrue..every scent will capture your heart with a unique lesson in balance and interplay of notes, making each scent unique for the day you choose to wear it. Very few scents come across the way these do. Count me in as a Montale fan..
Also, most of the montale line is a representation/interpretation of what has already been done in middle east and India. it's not exactly original. Everything from the oudh line, Attars and Mukhallat is inspired and most often copied. Montale adds his touch and refines it quite a bit to make it wearable to all. All in all, a big thumbs up to Montale for taking this bold step and introducing the west to Indian and Middle eastern perfumes.

The Aoud Line:

Aoud Flowers: This one opens with a sweet refined floral blast along with Oudh, Rose and Lime, almost medicinal and oil extract in nature..give it 5 minutes and it settles down to a very fine layer of Rose, quite unlike BA. The oudh Backs off quite quickly on this one (45 minutes on my skin)...only to reveal "polished woody notes" and oudh. it stays this way with not much developments except for the polish wearing out revelaing a very bright Oudh note with touch of gold powder...easily Unisex, but would be really drop dead sexy on a lady. spritz away! it's Montale Time!!

Red Aoud: the opening 5 minutes is where one feels as if they were smelling chocolate. i think its a mirage created by the combination of Oudh, Iris & time this note subsides intoa very warm layer of spices. the oudh by itself is very less pronounced at this stage. we have a very familiar note once we are 15 minutes into this, it's here that it smells quite inspired by Dior Homme(im surpised no one made this comparison . one can clearly view Iris laying down on bed with pepper sprinkled and it being massaged by Saffron...the interplay of notes now take on full swing with the spicy notes interchangin places with Iris. This essentially stays on like Dior homme for the entire progression of mid notes with spicy undertones to keep one busy. this one has a heart of Iris surrounded by spicy notes on a lush base on Aoudh. fpr ref, this is a spicier/oudh version of Dior homme)

Oud Ambre: Opens with a blast of sweet, medicinal notes of oudh, the oudh used here is kinda new to me of what i have tried so far from the montale line. i also detect bit of incense in this one...and by far this one has to be the Woodiest Montale that i have tried. it maybe the true form of Amber which is painting this Image of smelling the open part of a freshly chopped tree. half an hour into this and it turns in to a slightly sweet and smoky then progressing in a freshly made Amber notes reminding one of the amber base in Amber Sultan. the only difference is the presense of oudh, which doesnt really try to the the stage. is humble enuff to take the supporting role and walk away with the best supporting actor in this film. for anyone who is looking for a Amber based scent with more than one twist, look no further. as obvious, this one is not out there to impress anyone, it's a very pleasant amber based scent that could be easily worn by either sex. the base is pretty light compared to Montale standards. very comforting and cozy for Winters. i think it;ll shine in winters sitting by the Bonfire. for one of those days when you dotn want the Oudh to overwhelm but at the same time, be there for you.

Black Oudh: one of the most intense openings ever! hardcore OUDH blast from the past with heavy duty crushed rose breath wrapped in leather. The initial half hour or so, this stays pretty intense with the rose peeking out in literally "peeks" it may sound funny but thts wht happens. some where in the midnotes, the big bully finally allows the Rose to see the outside world...the rose in it smells a bit like the "Rose by crown perfumery" something like concentrated rose's after couple of hours that BA reveals its true character and makes the entire journey quite interesting. it is here where the heavy dose of patchouli casts its magical base of earthiness along with the oudh..the combination of pathchouli, oudh and rose with leather notes cast a spell, so comforting, warm, earthy and woody...that it acheives an unbelivable depth and tone to the whole journey. lovely stuff, i would be surprised if anyone took to liking for this one immediately. i know i didnt, but this one showed it character in full wear. this ones called the king for a reason. it's sillage will have you fall to your knees...too good a frag to be missed. just be prepared for the intial hour or's like Scotch...give it to someone for the first time and they'd be like...what the heck is this? cud one possibly drink this??...but steadily, it grows on you..and intoxicates one and makes them come back for more.

Aoud Lime: smells like BA, but the difference is how the saffron-rose duo jams with lime, oudh and other woody notes...i find this one more enjoyable and exciting all the way from start to end. The addition of saffron changes the approach and adds a lil bit of sweetness to the entire mix, bringing out the best from Rose. again, if one removes the oudh frm this, it'll be a different frag altogether in comparison to BA. BA with its heavy dose of oudh, leather and patchouli is a different beast altogether. Aoud lime is a definite keeper and i would certainly imagine wearing this over BA some days...

Royal Oudh: if one has to be introduced to oudhs, i think this would be the safest way to do so. Royal Oudh is well, Royal. a very familiar smell (kumquat), sweetened by grapefruit, its sweet to an extent, but its stops way before one would call it fruity or gourmand. i really loved the opening notes of this one. makes one feel like one of those rich sheik arabs. the oudh in it is massaged in the background with slightly sweet fruity notes along with rich spices...the oudh is very much put in background and acts as a rock solid base for other top and midnotes...the whole balance of this frag amazes see how the intensity of the oudh is controlled from top to midnotes is to be witnessed...its only in the base tht the oudh and some kinda chilli notes rule the us a totally different frag that it was in start.....overall, worth sampling.

Non Aoud Line:

Vanilla Extasy: this is clearly influenced and is an exact replica of H.M. by Mori - Period. I hate gourmands of this, this one is definitely not for me. for anyone who likes H.M. this one should be right up your alley. Seems PM is a big fan of this release by H.M.

Fougeres Marine: it's pretty clear that Montale had GIT as an "inspiration" for this one. im not atall indicating this smells alike but, one cant help but think that hey, this is such a nice interpretation of GIT. this is obviously done in a very Montale way..Inspite of having Erolfa and GIT, I would still buy this gem coz it doesnt smell like any of those. there is a very cool mineral water feel to it.. like clean transparent if this is what silver mountain water should have actually smelled.. it doesnt exactly remind me of the sea..fresh green notes mingling with mineral like subtance on a base of musk.Im surprised by how underrated this gem is though. this ones clean, fresh, out of the shower kinds with a very interesting interplay of notes to keep you busy all the way till it ends. only down side...spray liberally for good lasting)

Greyland: Opening is quite promising. but, thats pretty much it. it is sort of a very ultra light version of SL Gris clair. i smell fumes emanating from a volcano from distant. i get the very same image for Gris clair..only this time the Volcano is erupting just next to me..well thts SL...anyways. greyland is a very nice dry ash based incense with hints of green notes(which reminds me of Let me play the lion quite a bit). One has to be pleased with its close to skin nature with occasional whiffs..liberal sprays should solve this or else, go for gris spray of that and you are in hell (in a very good way...i'd imagine Liz hurley would be there... slurps) ....on second thought... :) i have still not made up my mind on this one. one of those kinds which grows on you it seems..

Vetiver De Sables: opens with a burst of Iodine based oinment which i didnt like a has that athlete rub ointment kinda feel...smoothens out after 45 minutes with some mild hints on vetiver, i dont get an woody notes atall..i would be curious to know everyones thought on this. this one didnt impress a bit.

Red Vetyver: this hot or what..the image that i had after wearing this was that of a man in flames. is it chilly? gosh this has all the hot spices one can think of..quite unbearable for me. and im talking two dabs from a vial. two sprays and i would run towards my stays intense for almost 2-3 hours before relaxing a bit to earthy vetiver and patchouli base....however, couple of wears into this, and i'm kinda growing into likin it. i can imagine how people staying in colder places would find comfort in such "warm", "spicy" vetiver based scent.

White Musk: Sexy or what!! this ones damn cool!! and by no means it's feminine..i mean ladies can wear it, but so cud a guy carry it off easy! the way it makes me feel is -> "smiling fresh"! damn good stuff! smells like fresh talc, a must try for everyone who appreciates fresh, tranparent, uncomplicated version of Musk based scents!!

SandalSliver: wow! this ones massive! the immediate thought that comes to mind (for topsnotes) is a ingredient called Gulkhand(it's made of fresh rose petals+powdered sugar+honey+lime), we use it here to make sweet paans.. though the composition may sound too sweet but, its not, the overall aroma that this exudes is just addictive. the opening notes smells like stays there for 30-45 mintues then moving in a wonderful composition of sandalwood oil and vanilla on a earthy base on patchouli.. but, Sandalwood takes the spotlight away pretty easily.

Blue Amber: as the name suggest! this one has a note which is quite linear and evokes different shades of Blue. the use of bourbon is very similar to cruel intentions, By Kilian..this ones smooth to the extent of being very fluid in its sillage. it's only in the midnotes that the Patchouli and vetiver adds sexy bite to the top notes on a base of one of the most beautiful Amber/vanilla accords ever. this ones easily one of the best amber scents around. it's very powdery...powdered to comfort.. amazing sillage..the one tht has you time and again thinkin, who is smelling so good! potent stuff on the way to acheiving cult status. im goin to have a hard time resisting this one(quick reference...SL Gris clair..psst..dont tell anyone i said's just a reference)

Mukhallat: represents a smell that i associate with Muslims(like all other montales). growing up around a loving Muslim family as neighbours, i can tell. it always used to intrigue me when younger..when i used to see uncle apply a lil part from a small bottle into a cotton ball which he would palce in between ears groove..then rub some under neck. mukhallat brings back strong memories. though it's a powdery gourmand (and people who know me, know how much i hate them), and it indeed is sweet, it commands respect and reflects festivity. To me, its s fun scent, to be worn specially on occasions and ofcourse when you feel like any other time. i definitely cannot associate it with sadness or daily chores or everyday has to be something special. this would be something very unique in ones collection, not comparable to any scent out there. notes of strawberry and almonds wouldnt make eny sense coz we arent used to smelling them this way...think of all the tropical dry Dates..imagine them in their juicy sticky form..imagine this having captured the best of it all...mix them all in milk and vanilla ice cream till it becomes an elixir from heaven...the mere thought of it should send our tongue rolling and leave a everl;asting olfactory signature which is very hard to miss.. this one would be lovely on a lady and a man alike. it's all about the timing for this one. 50 ml should go long way and would stay enjoyable. a big thumbs up to Montale for introducing this already existing formula to everyone.

SandFlowers: Nothing to write home about. smells very dry yet has some life..maybe a freshly chopped cactus, seaweed or some flower that im not familiar of. all that associations with Sand is true and it does evoke an image of shrubs in between sand on a very hot sunny day. again, nothing spectacular & moderate sillage..

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