Patchouli and it's warm halo

Parfumerie Generale Intrgrant Patchouli - I guess this is what they refer to as a "hippie" version when it comes to patchouli based scents. It's raw, gritty patchouli...almost smells like being in a tobacco shop. it carries a menthol like coolness which is another charateristic. suave, woody and elegant. perfect for colder weather..

L'Artisan Parfumer Patchouli Patch - Soft, Silk like patch with trademark smell of fine, light brown mud. vanilla provides hint of sweetness which adds to the powdery aura of this gem.

Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli - Just cant get enough of this one. This is my go to scent for evenings.  It's said to combine rose with patchouli...but i dont think it's rosy. floral? definitely yes, intense heady mix of florals. something like black rose if theres such a thing. This is one of those rare patchouli based scent that doesnt come across as muddy/earth like..it's much darker.. again, as with all HdP releases, it has a sublime drydown of patch and vanilla. simply divine.

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 - Niche version of A*Men. Cocoa dusted over Patch. Chocolate accord is perfectly complimented with Patchouli. a very unique blend, in that, neither of them overpower each other.

Ulrich Lang Nightscape - Oh what a dream...if there ever is a poetry describing Patchouli, then it has to be this beautiful release from the house of Ulrich Lang. We get to experience a multifaceted scent..almost like a hologram. The unique aspect of this scent is it's skillful blending with white florals. which makes it all the more interesting, in that, this scent still manages to be a Patch prominent scent. lovely!

Chanel Coromandel - This one, i somehow feel is a lighter version of HdP Noir Patchouli. for all we know, Noir Patchouli would've been inspired by this release. Coromandel is much more on the floral side yet, the use of Patch is distinct and adds the characteristic coolness in begining and earthiness towards base. It's the best in it's class.

Givenchy Gentleman - Probably the "only" designer release which contains Patchouli in such high concentration and purity. A seminal release which is next to none.

*Patchouli offers so many different facets in terms of the depth, powdery nature and it's unique earth like texture in perfumery. Here are some of the scents that i've either sampled or own that i'd recommend anyone interested in this accord to try.. *

Patchouli -

Maxims Pour homme

Maxims Pour homme: have you ever heard an SA say "this scent has a BURST of freshness?"… All the time eh...but never convinced with what you sniffed?? Enter, Maxims Ph.

Powdery sweet accords of intense green notes with an equally intense accord of "refreshing" white florals, which by the way is not really able to shake that color green out of my head...all with a cool breeze of sandalwood. The powderiness, needless to say, stays thruout the entire progression of this scent. One aspect, which really grabbed my attention was this persistent accord of steel to this whole equation..it was Like smellin this accord thru a sterilized, perforated space age steel tube... this feel gives this scent a somewhat unique, fresh in a very shiny, sophisticated kinda way.

The base notes is lush, mossy, powdery with hints of patchouli but mostly mossy, woody with hints of leather. Did I say it stays fresh throughout? They don’t make scents like this one anymore.

Balenciaga Pour Homme

Balenciaga Pour Homme: I cudnt smell anything when I first sprayed it on..coz my senses went numb on first whiff (same thing happened with Furyo btw)..isn’t that how you feel when you have morphine..? So i have heard... Civet…Civet overdose with a spalsh of aldehydes, and honeyed floral notes... i simply loved this one. When i first received it, it was in a splash format (mini)...i splashed a decent amount on my palm and dabbed it on liberally around neck and forearms...whoa! For those who have tested this would know exactly how gritty it is. It’s a experience to say the least. Very intense notes of honeyed floral accords and aldehyde with a liberal dose of vanilla (not pods...more like the ice cream itself) with an strong overdose of civet giving it a "bite". The notes may sound like it's leaning towards gourmand, but it's surprisingly not! It stays on pretty gritty for the first hour or so thereby turning into a remarkably soft floral with a unique combination of Sandalwood, Vanilla, Incense and civet. It was/is an experience indeed and I enjoyed this scent every last bit where is my back up bottle!!! wouldn’t ever wanna be without this one.

For a quick reference, it smells like Ted Lapidus for men mixed with Kouros...the base notes is more like Lapidus pour homme than kouros. This is for someone who likes scents like Lapidus Pour Homme and YSL Kouros.

Balenciaga - Ho Hang Club

Balenciaga Ho Hang Club: A straight ahead, no non-sense Patchouli based scent (smell of earth) with a very powerful accord of florals combined with a powdery extract of spices and woody notes. The base is mostly musky, mossy green with hints of incense and mild touch of leather acting as a comforting anchor retaining its powdery accords with amazing consistentcy. Wish I had the vocabulary to go on and on about this gem…

This one is for people who admire scents like Cartier Santos, Trussardi Uomo & Van Cleef & Arpels ph. not to be missed at any cost. 80's at its best!!

extremely hard to find*

Jaques Bogart Furyo

Jaques Bogart Furyo: Yes, it;s the very same bogart..we identify this company by a release called One Man Show. With Furyo, Bogart created a landmark of sorts..so they did with One Man Show. but unfortunately, what we get today is a reformulated juice with just thelabel of One man show, it;s still good, but not the way the orignal used to smell. One needs to experience the kind of quality Bogart put in early on. Furyo is one eg. on that. it a long discontinued release by Bogart and almost "impossible" to find. it shows up on ebay sometimes and it gets snatched for some $500+. This has to do with the rarity aspect and also, the scent that Furyo is. Furyo contains very high concentration of Fig Tree Leaf Oil and Juniper berry oil making it a scent with high concentration of natural elements. It's quite clearly, the niche scent of 80's. If i have to make a reference, then Costes by Hotel Costes was clearly inspired by Furyo. Maybe coz of its use of Laurel, but that where the similarity stops... Furyo opens with a very "sharp", "arid" accord of laurel, bayleaf and note like rose sherbet...think costes like opening notes, only this one is sharp in approach and has that red feel to it...after an hour or so, this turns up the woody accords with a strong hand of civet. Civet as in, Kouros. Only thing, it doesnt smell anything like kouros apart from the civet reference...Civet in it gives this one the trademark powdery touch. Scent stays sweet, powdery, animalic &pretty linear from here on settling into soft notes of musk (primarily)

Notes listed behind the bottle are: Fig tree leaf absolute, juniper berry oil, Laurel, Vetyver, Tabac, Patchouly, castoreum, Amber and musk. Isn’t it surprising to see essential oils of Fig Tree Leaf and Juniper Berry in its composition?

This is for someone who admires scents like costes(for red spices, laurel and bay leaf), Kouros(for civet), although, this smells radically different as a scent. extremely hard to find scent*

Roberto Capucci - R de Capucci

Roberto Capucci’s R de Capucci: R de Capucci was probably the coolest dude back then. It has this powdery, fresh out of the barbershop with a nice after shave cologne kinda feel to it. It undoubtedly comes across as a green scent…not gritty, but intense, more like holding a bunch of freshly sprouted leaves against nose...doing so, the leaves would give off a slightly bitter, almost citrusy feel…my point is, the citrus doesn’t take ones attention away from the lovely green accord, it's anything but restrained and classy and it wants to make an impression as an well mannered, remarkably fresh and green scent without smelling dated or lemony. Surprisingly, after 15 minutes of application, it gets a bit powdery and the green notes gets a bit more intense, here it reminds me of the structure of the Chanel classic, Pour Monsieur. If anything, this could've easily become Pour Monsieur Concentrate...would have been very apt. Notes of lemon gleams now with a glow to it, giving this gem a breath of freshness and zest and making it more versatile. Floral accords adds to the charm and gives it the signature accord of an era it represented…basenote are pretty soft, mildy powdery, sweet, mossy with lots of fresh vetiver, vanilla like sweetness (and powderiness) with trademark hint of patchouli..

This is for someone who admires Chanel Pour Monsieur type scents

Roberto Capucci - Punjab

Roberto Capucci ‘s Punjab: Getting hold of this scent is as good as getting hold of shalimar. extremely hard to find vintage by the house of Capucci.

Punjab is a no holds barred, vegetal, herbal, amber based scent with a unique touch of floral. I do not get the connection with Leonard Ph but, I can very safely say it has a lot in common with Nina Ricci's Phileas. Only slighltly lighter than Phileas in the vegetal herbal department, nevertheless, not for the light hearted.Would be an overkill to have both in the same wardrobe, saying that, if you like these kind of herbal scents, then it cant get better. Punjab opens with a very warm, powdery smooth note of amber and dust. Very soon the herbal overtones are pretty clear...it stays pretty warm and herbal for an hour or so before moving into second phase where the herbal accord is slightly toned down to make way for exquisite floral accord coupled with cinnamon (the cinnamon init quite clearly reminds me of Creeds seminal release, Baie de Genievere)..the floral elements along with the touch of spice gives this scent a sense of contrast (against herbal notes)…this also helps form the heart notes of Punjab and never falls into the trap of being a one dimensional, herbal scent. What we get towards the base notes is where scents of this era shines...luxurious accords of amber and incense spilled on used leather kind of feel. Such soft use of incense in the accords, very visible, yet, never taking the center stage. The herbal feel is quite toned down by now and makes Punjab a scent which is quite versatile. In the sense, its developments are seamless and enjoyable at every phase.

It’s pretty obvious that Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan derived it's structure from Punjab...and by saying so, I salute SL, for releasing a scent which offers its customers top quality. Although, Punjab smells much more opulent in the amber department..Even Tom fords Amber absolute kind of pales in comparison...which goes on to show the kind of quality that went into this scent.

This is not a pleasant scent, people who don’t like (vegetal) herbal scents can safely stay away from this release but, if you like Nina Ricci's seminal release Phileas, then definitely give this one a shot.

Lancome Sagamore (1985, Vintage edition)

Lancome Sagamore: My First impression of wearing this scent was that of wearing a talcum powder, which wasn’t very sweet. The only hint of sweetness are in it's opening notes where soft notes of (dry) lime peel and herbs peek thru the dense, powdery accords of Lavender..A lavender so rich, one could feel its grittiness, feel it sway, almost taste it. There is a very raw use of Civet here which cuts off any hint of freshness in the scent. kinda gives it a very masculine accord. As the lavender tones down a bit, the notes of lime are much more clearer, although, it's not bright, or sparkling, it smells like dried lemon peel. The framework of this scent is quite obviously like Chanel Pour Monsieur, which makes me think of the Impact Chanel PM had on the perfumery. Sagamore continues to be a green, citrus based chypre in it’s heart notes reminding one of Chanel PM, the only difference, it's not as bright and fresh if you may. Sagamore settles down to a much more relaxed note of vetiver with hints of patchouli and lovely accord of sandalwood towards base...oh how i miss such accords in basenotes..Especially the use o.f sandalwood. Longevity is not exactly what I expected, but a few sprays extra might help JThis could very easily be a daily wear and is not as gothic as one would imagine. it’s a gritty, citrus base woody scent which is dirtied up a bit, yet, Smells a million bucks or more.

People who like Chanel Pour Monsieur type of scents should definitely put this one on their wish list

Gucci Nobile

Gucci Nobile: Crisp green scent with great transparency. Transcends all era and is timeless. For a change, it’s not a green scent which reminds one of Chanel PM. Nobile has to be the inspiration for scents like Malle’s French Lover…not in the use of civet but the juicy, fresh feel of tender, light green colored leaves. It turns a bit floral by mids but still retains it’s green character with a touch of gourmand (burnt sugar?) like accord. The base is a luxurious blend on musk, vetiver and sandalwood. Musk adds to the bite, keeps it fresh, vetiver keeps it green and sandalwood adds to the soapiness, keeping this a fresh scent all the way. A lovely scent for daily wear and a kind which with each wear reveals one secret after other. Incredibly well blended and a top notch composition

Tom Ford Private Blends

Tom Ford, as we all know is the man who turned around Gucci from a loss making, almost bankrupt fashion house into one of the most profitable and respected Fashion house in the world today. Tom Ford ultimately left Gucci to form his own line (creative/corporate tussle/interferences). In his time with Gucci, one of the many things he did was, he revived two classics by Gucci and created one new scent. Scents created under the creative direction of Tom Ford were Gucci Ph, Rive Gauche Ph & M7. all hailed as classics already and are best sellers. So, when Tom Ford decides to do his own perfume line? We can expect the best and only the best.

So, i finally got to sample four offerings from the Tom Ford Private blends today. Each scent had the quality and theme to go with. However, some scents strongly reminded me of other scents, so in that perspective, i didnt smell something entirely new, but then, i found the quality of TF offerings excellent. Tom Ford Private blends sells for around $180 for a 50 ml and $500 for the 250 ml(pictured below are the 250 ml jugs)

Tuscan Leather: if there is any scent..and i mean any scent, which can compete with Knize 10, it's Tom Fords Tuscan Leather. straight out of spritzer, it has leather written all over it. With Knize ten, i always had this image of spanking new leather product, polished, toned and finished to perfection, at the same time, i used to get this vibe which is very green. With Tuscan Leather, i dont get any green notes. if i had to set a color to represent tuscan leather, it has to be deep brown. i get the smell of a newly tanned leather sheet. it's supple and soft, ready to be moulded into a wallet or a jacket... i tried hard to find other accords in this scent...but, all i could smell was leather, leather and "only" leather. made me wonder, is this one note frgrance..? coz if it is, then this has to be one of the best scents around which is linear. But, when i say linear, it doesnt mean it doesnt have any other tricks in it's bag. it probably has to do with the quality if ingredients that went into it... This one has a mesmerising sillage..and i mean "mesmerising". close to skin, one could smell the finest leather accord you could possibly sniff and away from skin, this scent swirls up in the air exuding different shades of brown and yes, a comforting warm halo of leather. by mids to base..a shiny tanner..almost tar like note appears and lingers on till the end. amazin scent to be worn in winters and or as one may please. a definite must have for anyone who is looking for a good quality, genuine leather based scent.

Noir de Noir: by now, everyone knows Noir de noir is a story abour Rose, saffron and Oudh...the recipe atypical of Montale offerings. i approached this scent with the same expectation, only to find it doesnt have the oudh bite of montale at all. i mean, there is oudh, but not the way Montale does it. I could draw parallels to Amouage's Lyric in terms of the beatiful accord of rose used in this. it also reminds me of L'Artisan's seminal offering Voleur du Roses. in other words, this one has a very enchanting take on rose. it's extremely pleasant yet has that dark bite of Oudh in it. There is a eerie chilly nature to this scent which makes one wonder whether this has frankincense in it's composition. what one gets in the end is a rose prominent scent sufficiently backed up by saffron and spices with the breath of Oudh and incense. im inclined to say Amoauges offering Lyric is far more suprior to this in many aspects and so are many of the Montale's offerings. yet, this is for someone, who isnt necessarily looking for a oudh promninent scent like montale and is ok to overlook the divine accord of rose in Lyric and settle for noir de noir only because this ones cheaper than the amouage. bottomline, it's not a must have, maybe a decant..im more of the Montale types and i love Voleur du roses as well...i wish i cud add Amouage Lyric to this list, but it is simply out of my budget. btw, this one stays pretty close to skin..disappears after couple of hours.

pictured above: 2 ml Samples coffret of the entire Tom Ford offering (2ml each). Rate: $180.

Moss Breches: whew..what a scent. it reminded me of (wet version) of Thundra in the opening notes followed by No.88 kinda accords (of course, minus the rose)...Today i happened to dab a lot more of Moss Breches and what struck me the most is the way patchouli is done here. very wet, sloggy patch i must add. not as dry as in thundra or Ingrant patchouli. this has a very wet forest floor kind of accord. it's clearly visible upon application, almost watery quality, within 5-7 minutes it slowly takes the backstage for other accords to follow in... i have stated elsewhere that i get this vibhuti accord in No. 88, which is white ash, it is very camphory sweet and dry in smell..and exudes a white incense like accord. i could also distantly relate it to an intense version of Chanels masterpiece, Coromandel(could be the patch playing tricks with me). it's pretty spicy in it's opening...but, where SL's Ambre Sultan exudes a color which is golden.. Moss Breches exudes the color white for me. so, it's spicy, but not in the spicy amber type scent we know of. maybe there is Angelica in there that gives it this "white" feel... that said, i dont get that image of Moss from it until i reach the mids to base section. whne someone mentons Moss, the firsts scent that springs to mind is Leonard Ph...however, the mossy nature of this scent is clearly expressed and it's not the smell of wet moss on stone after rain..it's more like dry, golden hued moss over stones...lovely! Patchouli indeed holds this scent and forms the core. but theres a lot of other things going on which doesnt make it a patch exclusive scent. this is a must try for anyone who appreciates C&S's No.88, Creed Angelique Incens & Chanel's Coromandel, and also Leonard ph to an extent (i dont mean to imply all these scents smell similar to each other, it;s just a reference, that im sure we all can relate to).Along with Tuscan Leather, this one has really enchanted me.

Amber Absolute: well, for those who say Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan doesnt have amber..should smell this one for reference. in it's openign accords it reminds one of mid notes of Ambre sultan minus the extreme spicy notes. within 10 minutes it morphs into another scent we adore so much, which is Parfums d'Empire's Ambre Russe. ofcourse minus the leather and herbal accords....so, what that leaves us with is a smoldering accord of glowing amber. it's so powerful, it has the capacity to turn someone warm by merely smelling it. no wonder it's called amber "absolute". this is a straight ahead, no-nonsense, smoldering amber based scent. a definite must have for someone who admires Ambre Sultan and Ambre Russe. isit worth ahaving all these three scents in one wardrobe...? depends. i do have amber sultan..so, i dont need this one. just for our info, this has more in common with Ambre Sultan than with Ambre Russe

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Sandalo Inspiritu

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Sandalo Inspiritu is a resinous-woody scent with a lot of subtle yet, distinctive developments. a spray (each) on wrist left a oily layer on skin (not as oily as a profumum though). The overall mood of Sandalo inspiritu is (mildly) spicy, (majorly)woody, (to a great extent)earthy, and animalic with the heart of rose+incense over a earthy base of amber & patchouli. Opening accords are pretty blunt and spicy and, to an extent, herbal.. There is a (persistant) wax like accord which gives the opening blast of spices and citrus elements a very smooth, rounded texture, I would like to say civet, coz it feels quite stuffy and creates a (dirty) fur like sensation and taste in upper throat/nose (like Ungaro II). Further up (30-45 mins), the way this scent wafts up in air is almost magical; with those dusty, earthy accords melting into rose, along with dense woody notes of (sandal+rose)wood with spices sprinkled gently over it...all this on a resinous base of Incense, patchouli oil and amber. Patchouli literally breathes in this one and it's presence is only felt alongside it’s wonderful ambery drydown. Rose plays a very important part and essentially forms the heart of this scent giving the sandalwood lot of character(rose never takes the center stage, but is present as a strong note complimenting rosewood and sandalwood)...it also adds to the animalic nature in a broader perspective after couple of hours... the overall wax like accord is omnipresent..But then, that adds to the charm of SI's sillage.

At a certain level, there is a slight resemblance with Parfumerie generale’s L'Ombre Fauve, Ungaro I, II & Tauer's Incense Rose. This scent would remind one of some or the other aspect of those 4 scents. i recall users commenting on this scent being linear, short lived, close to skin, I must respectfully disagree. Close to skin, it smells quite crowded & dense but, away from skin, it's sillage is mesmerizing, it creates a halo of aroma around you. I’d like to refer these kinda sillage as the “aura”..other scents with “aura type” sillage would be Dior Homme, Issey Bleue, Guerlain L’Instant et al.

It's now 8+ hours and this scent is still going strong and has settled to a lovely base of amber and woods. i would now look forward to sample it's parfum extrait, if avaialble...must be some sniff . at $70 for a 30 ml (EdP), it's not cheap..matter of fact, is very close to a lutens or a profumum. the good news is, it's available in 30ml format, therefore, is much easier to procure. DSH also offers .25oz bottles at a very competitive price. Though the quality of ingredients doesnt comes across as a Profumum or a Mazzolari still, this one holds it's place in offering something unique in terms of it's theme, which is very bold and it's ingredients, which comes across as natural and very, very, well blended. some talent this lady.

Ungaro I & II

Ungaro I: One of the first things that one would notice when they apply ungaro I is it's smoldering quality. The definition of "smoldering" fits this scent so perfectly that i cant really associate any other scent with that word. the definition (of smoldering) by the way is "to burn slowly and gently, usually with some smoke, but without a flame". How apt. i think it's patchouli oil along with woody resins and lavender which gives it this smoky, wax like feel and heat.

This scent opens with a very warm note of lavender melting into a wax like note of rose, smoldering on patchouli oil and woody notes. By mid notes, this wax like accord gets more blunt and sorta envelopes the wearer. The interplay of woody and floral notes gets more airy on a base of earthy notes with each passing minute, all this while still retaining the core essense of the opening accord, which is it's damp earth like warmth and "polished with wax" smokiness of lavender, rose and woods. it's sheer in nature, never failing to amaze. amber holds the base with lovely notes of sandalwood well rounded off with soft notes of tonka bean..which smells like vanilla pods...it's in a way a prequel to III, or may be III was inspired by I. There is a reason why this is hailed as a classic and it's quite justified. comparing it's quality (of ingredients and composition) with Patou is only obvious.

Patou Ph & Prive, Havana, Havana Reserva, Ungaro I, II & III(yet to try the original formulation of III), Morabito OR black+more... - get these while it is still available...the quality of these scents has had me gasping for more...im sure it'll find more suitable admirers...
Ungaro II: Opens with a powdery blast of citrus with hints of rose. 10 minutes into this scent and boy! this one turns into a Stuffy, fur like, Animalic scent! smells of cat fur up close. this is a "CIVET" prominent scent with loads of lavender and musk thrown in. by mids-basenotes, this scent gets even more sexier with the addition of absolutely divine notes of sandalwood. to me, this is essentionally a civet based scent with heart of lavender on a base of musk and lovely notes of sandalwood. in short, Civet, Lavender, Rose and Sandalwood are the true stars of this gem smells very classy and complex all the way from top to bottom.. i'd almost eat myself up when wearing this one. TOP Notch scent!! i'm rushing in for a back up bottle as i'd never want to be without this one. a bold release from the house of Ungaro.

Balmain Ambre Gris

smooooooo - th notes of pina colada greets me with light touch of florals and a smoky touch of woody notes. I have come across fruity scents...but, I can safely say, non like this. It’s beautiful and elegant in its composition; the blend is just perfect, like a harmony. The mood is undoubtedly dark (grey) and mysterious…the progressions, definitely exciting and ever-changing. By mid-notes, the fruity notes (think rich pina colada) melt into a smoky and velvety smooth accord of woods. The smokiness of this scent is the beauty of it, along with it’s lovely blend of woods (the smoke is not as intense as black tourmaline, nevertheless, is a distant relative of the same) all this on a base of warm notes of amber and musk along with resinous notes of incense and woods (think M7). The quality of amber and incense is very smooth and well rounded off leaving no sharp edges… It’s a blend which is very opulent and rich. By base notes, I feel I’m wearing a smoked, woody(intense), leather based scent with touch of incense. The best part is, though it may sound dark, it’s still beautiful and would smell great for both formal and casual occasions.

To sum it up, it's not fair to label it fruity scent; this is "much" more than that. It’s been 10 hours now and still, this scent is evolving, not many do. Close to skin, it still smells beautiful and mysterious; which goes on to show the quality on this scent. Very easy to get addicted to this one. a big assed picture and a thumbs up!

Miller Et Bertaux, Mazzolari, Creed, Serge Lutens, the different company

Miller Et Bertaux Spiritus Land #2: #2 embraces skin with sparkling notes of tender juicy herbs and a deft hand of spices and citrus. it's almost like Franceso Smalto Ph to an extent. only with #2, the quality and smell takes it 30 levels further interms of quality. The tranparency with which this scent exudes it's shimmering quality is purely remarkable. The way spices have been handled in this one is not a step shy from being a masterpiece. i dont detect any prominent notes of thyme or ginger..well, call it a unique blend. However, the image that it evokes for me is " light green" especially betel leaf blended with lovely notes of woods...the scent progresses to harmonize and blend with the skin in a way i have never (and i mean never) experienced before...the soothing quality, the serene nature...and the unique set of progressions makes it 3 different perfume in one. The Top Notes smells nothing like it's mids and the mids nothing like the base notes. just to give a hint, the basenote smells like a refined version of Costes by Hotel Costes. smooth notes of sandalwood treats you with deft touch of incense by mids to basenotes (the quality of incense? non parellel). i'm overwhelmed to say the least. This ones a must have or at least, must test.


Mazzolari Lui: wow! this ones a cracking slap for someone looking for animalic scents with leather/patchouli/cedar(pencil shavings) combination. Lui smells like a dusty fur coat scented with aged patchouli, notes of cedar (pencil shavings) and was probably left near a campfire. extremely classy and would really shine thru during winters. the smell is something that could be distantly related to Gucci Ph(for reference...ohh but this is wayyyy mor than that). The treatment of patchouli is quite tempered, never taking the front stage so is the way the smoked cedar has been treated. the basenotes exude earthy notes of vetiver and sandalwood with hints of patch. it's smoky, dusty(in a very attic kind of way), animalic and mysterious to say the least.


The Different Company Un Parfum des Sens et Bois: my fourth TDC, and im thinkin..wow, this house is indeed doing something very differently DSeB lands on skin with very controlled(never too loud), smooth and rich notes of florals (violets) and bergamote with ginger lurking not very far behind, the key to this scent is the way violets have been treated (think of it as a refined, super light version of Boss Selections for reference). There is indeed a watery quality to it, which makes you think wheather it's getting lighter and would disappear in 15 minutes, but, thats when this scent takes shapes and adds a soft cotton like aura of woody notes embracing the floral beauty of violets. by mid notes, pepper/ginger combo adds to the bite of the scent and gives it a dark shade of what was until now very tranparent, almost aquatic note. this accord (pepper and ginger) is quite familiar and is used in various other scents like for eg. Rochas Aquaman. the "difference" is the treatment in this one. the way it balances between clear, almost tranparent notes of woods and violets and on the other hand the spicy nature of pepper and ginger...the mids are truly enjoyable as this accords shifts to a more airy accord...as if what we sniffed until now was dream, lovely notes on (light, mild)incense creeps in and almost gives every note a airy accord. The scent changes it approach in the most seemingly smooth fashion. lovely scent to the last note. the quality is there and the scent, beautiful serene..


Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge: hey now, it's not as bad as the reviews make it sound i was totally prepared for a ultra sweet concoction, but it surprised me in that department at first. it's no way as sweet as say cedre (i enjoy my cedre btw). it's very resinous to say the least, the openin accords are muted , fruity, smoky with a vegetal accord. the honey/vanilla combo kick it up by mids with the fruity gum accord still present. i think it's this fruit gum accord which didnt stick with many. patchouli though listed is not a prominent note..if anything, just a whisper. it's definitely ambery sweet with hints honey and moss towards the base with the "frutiy accord" still whispering on...
its no ambre sultan, gris clair, daim blond or cedre, yet, it's a "fun" fragrance. and my first (fun frag) with serge lutens i must say. there is nothing serious about it. it's a beautiful concoction by every means but, i would not recommend this as one of the top 5 scents from this line to anyone.. wear it over to a barbeque, or summer outings..im sure it'll fun.


Creed Original Vetiver: opens with a controlled and refined freshness. it didnt remind me of Mugler cologne for a second but, it did remind me of Adolfo Dominiguez Vetiver Hombre. only this one being much smoother and refined. where one would hesitate to over apply Vetiver Hombre in the fear of gasping, this one serves you just right.
OV has tremendous longevity on my skin, 8-10 hours plus. The midnotes are quite controlled and has that trademark soapy note which makes Mugler cologne the scent it is, however, i would strongly prefer this over mugler for all the extra creed has packed in. something about this one is (dare is say) natural. The surprise element for me was it's drydown. the basenotes evokes smell of dry vetiver leaves (crumbling), not like the soapy fresh one i encounterd from opening to mids. it's quite intense in the base too and adds to the soapy nature of vetiver in a very unique (dry) way. this scent has a very distinct phase , right from the opening notes to mid to the base. thumbs up! summer, here i come!!!


Creed Baie de Genievere: intense note of juniper berry greets the wearer with sheer intensity. intial thoughts would be..hmm, dated? well, subsequent wearing shrugs of any such thoughts and you simply get addicted to this one. dark, broodingly intense notes of berry seemingly flows in to delicate and lovely accord of cinnamon leaves which just opens up the midnotes with hints of spices. the accord is definitely dated and has that trademark barbershop colognes smell to it, only this ones mighty potent with raw amber embracing the accords with hint of musk and loads of vetiver. lovely scent which may not impress rightaway, but will slowly work into your olfactory appetite. Bon apetite! (perfect for winters and spring)

Knize Ten

Knize Ten: Established in Vienna in 1859, Knize is a distinguished label of fine-tailored menswear. It is said that ten days and 7000 hand stitches go into producing each bespoke Knize suit. Knize Ten was created back in 1924.

Knize Ten took me back to my childhood. What it reminded me strongly of is,(dare i say) my Mom's dressing table, it's drawers and its contents, especially talcum Powders (there is one by name Cuticura which is remarkably similar), and leather "finished" makeup kits and purses. This scent literally sucked me into that era and time. The overall aroma is unmistakably captured so damn well for me in K-10. A fascinating scent. I would say this scent is quite easily unisex because of its powdery nature...it may smell tad old fashioned on a women (only some maybe able to carry it off) but on a guy, this is a sure shot winner. This scent has a pretty linear approach and is unmistakably (powdery fresh) Green in it's feel with the powder never loosing its sight. I do not detect any citrus elements in the top notes. When reviews says a “blast of Citrus” - its nothing like an Etro Lemon Sorbet or an Issey or a Live Jazz or anything of that genre... The opening notes is anything but powdery herbal which is green (almost intense fern like sweet note) with a smell of sandalwood talcum powder aged in a metal container...this accord is surprisingly transparent. soon the powdery elements soon take over and this scent lingers on and on in this phase...The leather note in it is not like Heeley Fine leather. It’s more of like a brand new scented leather product.

Bond No. 9

Bond no.9 Riverside drive: Fresh blast of minty sweet fruity notes with a heart of florals and a heavy bottom of musk and woods. this scent is very clear and transparent overall, no dark notes. in a nutshell, this is how you feel when you brush your teeth with those vibrant, fresh, flavored toothpastes. it smells just like tht, and it stays that way for a very long time with a very sweet interplay of notes which will keep you busy. Lovely scent for dates~! this is meant to be worn on dates or if you are planing to ask a girl out! Bond did it with this one for me. it's a must have at any price. Period!! Thumbs up on this one.

Bond No.9 Chez Bond: News Flash! Creed Green Irish Tweed Clone!! ohh wait...everyone knows this already... hmmf..well Go for GIT anyday. this is like a picture, static, theres no interplay of notes the way it breathes in GIT..oh well this is chez bond page..hmm..it is indeed a lame recreation of GIT.Thumbs down for sheer lack of creativity.

Bond No.9 Little Italy:What were they thinkin? Top notes: lime peelMid notes: Lime peelbase notes: lime peel and muskutterly boring.the intensity of lime reminded me of Live Jazz and Eau Sauvage...but there is no movement of notes..just fresh lime notes. if strong citrus us what you like wihtout any complications, thn you may consider. if you like to be kept interested thru out, thn Go for Live Jazz and Eau Sauvage.thumbs down for the rate.

Bond No. 9 Fashion Avenue: Pretty light scent, but very lovely constrution. beautiful florals (ylang Ylang) done in a very realistic way...one could almost feel as if they were smellign the flower directly. but then again the downside is, longevity. i think one needs opt spray a good 10-15 shots to get this baby lingering whole day. lovely creation, coudl be brought for pleasure and close encounters in night.one could almost mistake it for Rose31...

Bond No. 9 So New York: smells like H.M. by Mori, Period. hate these kinda candy like gourmands...if someone doesnt like these kinda scent but would like something in similar lines, then pls try Montales - Chypre Vanille (pls note: CV not a gourmand type, very floral).

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Certain scents that i came across, changed the way i looked at perfumery, my seriousness towards it reached to a level where i could say, im addicted...Serge Lutens did it with Amber Sultan, Gris Clair, Cedre...TDC did it with Rose Poivree..Montale did it with Blue Amber, Aoud Lime...Creed did it with GIT, Erolfa...L'Artisan did it with Dzhongkha...i cud go on and on as this is my third glass of wine so, ill cut the chase....this list now incudes Maître Parfumeur et Gantier...

It's a company started in 1988 by the great Nose of our times, Jean Laporte (MPG is now headed by Jean-Paul Millet Lage), yes, Jean Laporte is the same legend who formed/created L'Artisan Parfumer back in 1976. this piece of information was enough to get me intrigued about this house...now...about their scents...

Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier: There is something really mysterious about Secret Melange...it's a clove(rich) based scent yes..but there is a "X" factor to this scent...something tht my nose cant pick but my senses can feel...theres a lot going in here behind the wall of freshly grinded "Cloves" the image tht comes to mind is, taking a handful of cloves and rubbing it against a stone covered with moss and then smellin this surface...the journey from Mid to basenotes is again one of the smoothest accords i have ever sniffed. pure class.caltha is very right whn he said it reminds him of Hammam Bouquet..how apt...they don't smell similar atall...but its in the raw, true nature of the accords that gives off the feeling its been made ages before...or maybe centuries before...not an ordinary scent. For someone looking for "that" mysterious scent...look no further.

Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (bottle, vintage formulation):What a scent. a true masterpiece. one of the most intriguing scents in my wardrobe with the capacity to draw you to it every time you open the wardrobe. it's very spicy/herbal in it's opening then gradually moving in to a very distinct spicy concoction which is almost powdery, evoking images of spices and woods churning...almost like a balm....people expecting Tam Dao kind of sandalwood would be suprised coz both are polar opposites in approach...think of this as a brother of Amber sultan(herbal approach) done in a very sandalwood (barks) kinda way..it's "Intense" but yet beautiful. amazing accords all the way till end...one of the best scents ever...and longevity you ask? it stays forever get the vintage formulation while you can...this ones not to be missed. does anyone see the similarity in the Herbal Approach between this and Amber Sultan?

Fraîche Badiane by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier (from a sample): It's a very unique take on fresher scent..no, its not an Aquatic kind...it's more of "citrusy fresh green" with an MPG touch. its doesnt smell anything like Urine as some proclaim...i mean, tht's very very misleading.opens with a very controlled and blunt blast of fresh herbs and citrus..if i have to give a relative reference then, think of lemonade with just a touch of sugar and lil bit ginger, coriander leaves and herbs (basil)...this scent in half an hour develops into a very unique accord, the MPG touch...this phase is one of the most satisfying set of accords i have felt. i only have a sample and could only imagine how this must feel with 3-5 sprays...simply divine i must say...if one is lookin for something which is not run of the mill, look no further. move over vetiver based scents..Fraîche Badiane is here to stay...all in all..there is nothin quite like it out there...it's very unique and at the same time it connects with you. simply marvelous...anyone who is looking to part with their MPG's(vintage formulation only)..Please, PM me (ill buy immediately only if the price is affordable to me)..
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier reviews, Fraîche Badine reviews, santal noble reviews, secret melange reviews

Carthusia - Numero UNO

I was very eager to see what Carthusia was all about after reading thru interesting quotes in Blogs and the constant praise and admiration this House has. It didnt disappoint...however, it didnt smell unique..in other words, i was familiar with the accords in it and it reminded me of few scents it must have been possibly inspired from...

Numero Uno opens with a very boozy accord, in a very nail polish remover kind of way...this accord very soon progresses to a very tart, bright, citrus notes... the effect of Orange peel is very very similar to YSL Live Jazz with a healthy dose of Lavender..its some where in transition from Top to Mid notes that it Uses Thyme in a powdery, copperish way that we are so used to and done in a elegant way in one other scent. The scent that im refering too is PDN New York. Numero Uno relies heavily on this Herbal accord which was so well crafted by PDN in her Masterpiece New York...the mid notes is merely a combination of YSL Live Jazz and PDN NY, not as spicy and balanced as NY though...somewhere in the base, the accords get very crowded and it almost a colossal display and disturbing collage of animalic notes on a base of mushy green vetiver and incense. somehow, it's very raw and real.. seems out of place..maybe it was intented to be raw in it's approach..but again, for someone who has YSL LJ and PDN New York..it'll be hard to ignore the similarities...at the same time, Fans of the same would rever this scent with same passion. Carthusia - Numero UNO review

Divine - L'homme Sage

Divine Lhomme Sage:L'homme Sage has a divine opening, like a white light, a Glow. A powdery burst of fruity notes and spices(mainly barks and roots kind). Fruity notes are so well rounded and delicately coated with spices with a hint of lime peel..the color and approach this scent evokes is very similar to Himalaya, however, all the similarities end in 15 minutes because, the Sage has finally come out of the white light and descended to a divine forest on Earth..this scent take a complete u-turn after 15 minutes or so..one can encounter the earthiness, the wet nature, the smell of freshly chopped wood or maybe the smell of wet bark of a tree. The patchouli with the hints of vetiver adds to the earthiness of this gem. This scent stays dry and smells very real, smells of damp earth and woody notes, not scented woody notes, but just plain wood in a rain forest..as each minutes passes by..one can clearly see these notes wafting of the skin with clear notes of Incense, one of a kind that i have encountered. The smell is very, very, very similar to Lez Nez Let me Play the Lion(LMPTL). i had earlier claimed how disappointing LMPTL was for me..i just didnt get it. but Divine made it simpler for me, it is definitely superior than LMPTL and all counts in terms if execution. With Lhomme Sage, i understood, it was clear, notes were more visible and real. Sage has a very rock solid foundation of one of the best Amber notes and Oakmoss. I think with Sage, Divine tried to accomplish a Scent which would be a Sage in itself. Rock solid theme which, if one gave some thought would really make lot of sense. and Yes, i could very well relate to the name this scent represents.

Fans of earthy green, woody scents, please take a note. this not a scent for parties or office. however, it definitely is something you could approach once you reach home from work, something to wear after a shower, something for colder wheathers..something to wear under the sweater to give you the utmost comfort and warmth without interfering much but, at the same time be there for you when needed. Sage lasts for over 8+ hours easy

Divine Lhomme Sage review, Divine L'homme Sage review

Geir By Geir Ness

Geir has one of the "coolest" opening to mid notes that i have come across. i have always wondered if there was a classier version of Old Spice, well yes, there is (imho) and i think i found mine. Smells so "powdery fresh in a very old spice way"(strangely it reminded me of Creed's Himalaya too).

The opening to mid notes remind me of a powdery version of Old Spice/Himalaya ..cool moutain breeze which carry mild woody notes with the hint of pepper, lavender and spices. This scent has a very talcum powder kind of powdery effect and at the same time one could feel the wet nature of this scent..somewhere between the midnotes->basenotes this scent morphs into another character altogether..something like gunpowder/steel/metallic accord on a base of somethin which smells very close to Boss selections. i would buy this over and over for it's there to please. two thumbs up! Geir ness review, geir review

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

A bit on who and what Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle(pictured) is all about:

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle created a platform where TOP perfumers of this era may demonstrate their talents, with no LVMH or other companies to dictate terms and use of certain ingredients or approach that would otherwise suit "mainstream". Frederic Malle(owner & founder) gave these perfumers complete artistic freedom and a platform without norms or limits of any kind.

The Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle today gives birth to 16 exceptional fragrances, each invested with an assertive personality.

French Lover: wow! wOW!! WOW!!! "crisp" clean spices right out of the spritzer with sparkling citrus elements, a scent with such amazing tranparency & shimmering quality. The color that comes to mind in Green, that of a newly sprouted leaf on a tree against the morning sun with the dew drops still on...it smells that pure and radiant..the way spices has been treated on this one has to put a lot of releases to shame. half an hour into the scent and the incense notes which form the heart of this gem, embraces the top notes into its fold with the gentlest touch of woody notes, the base seems to be a very tradional vetiver with animalic notes...overall, if one appreciates scents like Floris Santal, and find peace in Vetiver based scents, then, this is none of them in terms of notes but the overall effect of it is sure to please lovers of the said. Clear Fresh Green notes with Clear, shimmering quality with an amazing heart of incense on a base of musk and vetiver is how i would like to summarise it, imho...Sillage of this one is an experience in itself. it stays close to skin overall if sprayed 2-3 times but, 6-8 sprays should set it right and make you feel good about the money well spent. Composed by the great Pierre Bourdon


Vetiver Extraordinare: ....close your eyes and VE does give an impression of moss and vetivers growing on the area of application, quite literally. smells very real and true. However, it smells very similar to Encre Noir (EN, please see my views on EN below). Im not indicating EN is Better than VE, what i'm indicating though is, i dont have the money for VE($210). both scents have enuff difference to stay in the same wardrobe...where EN may smell of Wood, Spices & Vetivers; VE smells of the very same vetivers used in EN + moss and damp forest smell. if you like EN, there is no way one is going to despise this one. nicely done.

Composed by the great Dominique Ropion and he quotes "a new essence of Vetiver, stripped of its bitter edge, which he matches with five woody notes to play up the scent's various facets. The result is something surprisingly fresh and crisp."
Noir Epices: 

Noir Epices is composed by the great Michel Roudnistka and the notes listed are "nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and pepper, Michel Roudnitska's scent is topped with orange and geranium and backed by precious woods, including sandalwood and patchouli. A woody oriental, a near chypré, its sensuality is elegant, never lascivious."

Im so glad i tested these, it's definitely one of those must sample before you buy kinda House, coz each bottle cost $210 upwards. somehow the reviews/opinions are very polarized...French Lover and Vetiver Extraordinare are the two which impressed me and warrants a buy.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle reviews

Cartier - Must de Cartier

First spritz of Must de Cartier and the image that comes to mind is how soft and powdery it is...like a soft cloud of spice, the intial blast of citrus and Anise with "sweet and sour" notes of orange is softened by spicy notes of Cinnamon with the gentle bite of ginger. Cinnamon barks holds the rein quite well along with earthy, woody midnotes which gives off a feel of being a spicy, oriental, gourmand type of scent. The beauty of this entire progression is that, the top-mid notes is covered by a cloud of Tonka bean which gives this wonderful scent the feel of warmed up spicy sweet, powdery Vanilla. Such is the quality of this note that it enveloped me in a warm, powdery, spicy glow which strays sometimes in the gourmand zone.
This is a very classy scent for formal settings and is thoroughly enjoyable on an evening out...it stays as mentioned above for 4 hours easy thereby subsiding to a moderately close to skin scent with vanillic (tonka bean) and woody notes.
I have read that this doenst have staying power...i have to respectfully disagree...this has a very mysterious sillage. one of the best that i have come across. many scents die out on me..but this, i could smell even after 10+ hours of application..this one is for someone who is looking for a well rounded, carefully blended, Spicy Oriental Gourmand with citrus topnotes, mid notes comprising of soft spices on a earthy, woody, vanillic base.
Cartier - Must de Cartier review

Lalique - Encre Noir

...the Vetiver is this is not the vetiver we are so used to, it's not green like a Creed OV or a Mugler Colonge or Vetiver hombre, No, Not even close...matter of fact this is the dark side.

Think of a wooden chest, centuries old, lying somewhere in attic of your grand parents house. it's not made of any ordinary wood, but somethin very similar to Sandal wood..It's finished to perfection, weighs quite a lot and is huge enough for a healthy person to slide in. This wood, on the outside too has a damp aromatic quality to it..like wet wood.. open this chest and one is wowed by the amazing aroma of wood trapped inside, along with the smell of old dusty books and some spices which accidently fell in...on second sniff one could smell dust much more clearly..Encre Noir takes this dusty/woody approach and combines it earthy Vetivers...half an hour passes by....there is a smell of ink emanating from the books..but this is not like smelling ink directly..it's more like Ink spilled on paper..it's the smell of ink with paper.

in a nutshell- after the card-boardish opening notes of ink, this scent single handedly takes the dry/woody/earthy approach to extremes. there is not a single fragrance released commercially that could match this(in niche category there are some)

It takes guts for a company to release a masterpiece like Encre Noir. Lalique has always released scents which are groudbreaking and creates new landmarks in the art of perfumery. Encre Noir is one of them, probably their boldest. it's no doubt a Comfort scent which will Shine is Winters. it'll provide one with the warmth and woody coziness required...and once you are home from a chilly day out and you are all set to sit by the bon fire, be sure you have Encre noir by your side.

Perfumer: Nathalie Lorson

Lalique - Encre Noir review

Yves Saint Laurent - L'Homme

L'Homme opens with a blunt, woody, citrus note along with the touch of Violets and basil...immediately this classic moves into a warm "GLOW" and it reminds one (only reminds) of a "softer" and much luxurious version of a Dior Homme. Ginger used here strangely reminded me of the raw ginger used in Quorom Silver..only this is 100 times more refined, subtle and been kept under the right volume...Ginger holds this frgrance as an Anchor hereon along with the tonka bean that has been treated with so much finesse, that it gives of an mirage of vanilla..but its not, least my guess...the cedar adds its charms with its touch of woodiness which is very light handed and effective. i get the Ginger all the way to the base on my skin, but by no means this turns a green scent...the presense of vetiver is only little i thnk..or maybe the ginger is eclipsing the same...

It's no Dior Homme. but definitly deserves equal adoration. A must have for me. Very comforting/warm scent for winters/summers alike. going to office cant get any better/classier than this. its certianly for someone who doesnt have to try too hard. It's a very upscale, modern scent which is highly sophisticated in its approach. It's YSL,We all know it never fails to excite

Perfumers: Pierre Wargnye, Anne Flipo & Dominique Ropion
YSL l'homme review, Yves Saint Laurent - L'Homme review

Lorenzo Villoresi - Alamut

Alamut opens with a flowery sweet, incense based opening which is mesmerising to say the least. An Indian would instantly recognise this smell as a spicy Rose based Agarbatti. This is a scent which has definite progression and stages..the first 1/2 hour-45 minutes is dominated by a sweet rose based agarbatti kind incense with heavy rosewood and other floral notes. The midnotes reveal a "well controlled" Tuberose as an anchor with a blunt powdery coating - delicious. The base note is the most comforting with the trademark LV musky/Ambery undertones.

It's always amazing to see a scent with definite stages...the intial sweet incense based opening to a blunt midnotes with almost little or no sweetness to a comforting base of musk, amber and benzoin....very rare to come across a scent so beautiful, that one could actually miss them.

This could be a wonderful fragrance for someone who is looking for something very unique and quite unlike any designer/niche fragrance out there. a wonderful evening fragrance sure to captivate the user and ooze a sense of mystery and sensuality of different level to both self and the people surrounding. just for lthe ladies? - i dont think so...this one can be worn by a man, easy.

Perfumer: Lorenzo Villoresi
Lorenzo Villoresi - Alamut review, Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut review

Loris Azzaro - Chrome

To me Chrome classifies as a niche fragrance. it's an amazing release which is often mocked upon and laughed at but, to me it's a landmark and an remarkable acheivement in perfumery. the notes interplay with each other with such amazing clarity, zing, effervescence that it's capable of shaking one up - "fresh" and it stays that way. The mere thought of applying it after shower brings on a smile. When it comes to lasting, it has stuck on me thruout a swelterin afternoon out in the sun, sweating profusely, but this one refuses to die out. Instead it mixes with sweat and gives off a fresher feel, sorta like a filter.

One would notice that this amazing concoction opens with a burst of freshness and a slight metallic note which sets the tone to this scent. There is a radiant inner glow to this scent which is done in the very same class as Dior Eau Sauvage. This burst of freshness is sparkling & shimmering with a radiant inner glow..combined with slightly bitter citrus elements, well rounded off with a musky cloud of dew and gentle tea notes; giving this gem a almost, mineral like, transparent, clear smell...the base of this one is quite woody yet, maintains the freshness till the end.

I, by now, have got introduced to Serge Lutens, 5 of the Creeds, and other so called Niche brands, and i wish they had released this gem. but they didnt, this was god's gift for common people like (me) to enjoy.

Perfumer: Gerard Haury under the creative direction of Loris Azzaro.

Loris Azzaro - Chrome review, azzaro chrome review

Gucci Pour Homme

Gucci PH opens with a camphory sweet, slightly smoky incense on top of green leafy notes & woody accord. it is no doubt a sweet incense based scent, with a subtle touch of sandalwood and other "woody" notes...as the sweetness (infamous pencil shaving note) starts to wear off in time, the leather, benzoin, incense n Amber works up the smoky sillage...this ones a smoky, spicy, incense based scent with a comforting base of leather, wood and amber..leaving a trail of pure class beyond words. Like Dior Homme (no similarity in smell), Gucci PH leaves an impression on the wearer...the aspect that i find most intriguing about this scent is the sillage, a masterpiece from Gucci, one that can challenge well known niche scents costing 5 times more.

Gucci Pour Homme review, gucci ph review